# Evap control errors **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** corolla, toyota\ **Created:** [December 10, 2016, 8:13am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982 "2016-12-10T08:13:39Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 2:08am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/21 "2016-12-11T02:08:18Z")
[quote=“GeorgeSanJose, post:18, topic:96982, full:true”] I don’t think rounding up to the nearest 5 cents would hurt the evap system. The canister is 11 years old, it probably has just given up the ghost as a symptom of old age. Evap systems have become very complex, and you really need someone working on this who has evap diagnostic experience and doesn’t take the replace this, replace that approach. Evap canisters can often be removed and bench tested, so ask about that. Better to keep the evap canister you have, particularly if it isn’t broken. Another poster above mentioned the purge valve. That could be the problem here itself, or sometimes when the canister gets saturated in gasoline (b/c of overfilling or it just failed) particles of carbon can lodge in the purge valve, and the purge valve gets taken out with the canister, and has to be replaced. Whatever’s causing the evap codes can be fixed, not a big deal, but it may take a bit of diagnostic time to figure out exactly what’s wrong. Replacing the gas cap might make sense as a first attempt, since that’s cheap.[/quote] Got it, thanks! > [@](#): > > That swhooshing sound is a little concerning. Unlikely to be related to the evap system. It may just be the fuel pump. But first off, make sure your coolant passes a freezing test. Shops have a gauge to make sure the coolant is good to -20 deg F or however cold it gets there. If icy-slush forms in the coolant overnight, which it shouldn’t if the coolant is strong enough, that can cause a swooshing sound coming from the water pump. If so, that is an immediate problem. Another thing that can cause a swhooshing sound is a defective power brake booster, so ask you shop to check for that while you get the evap problem addressed. Best of luck. To be honest, I will hear the swoosh in situations that have little to do with very low temperature – where I am it _very_ rarely gets below 0F (I am in Boulder, our winters are not like in the high country). Among them it would be something like this: I shut down the engine in the evening and it’s something like 65F. It rains overnight and in the morning it may be something like 35-40F and I’ll likely hear it when I start. I don’t even know if “swoosh” is the right word. It isn’t really a hiss, but the sound would make one think of gas escaping or getting sucked in, or possibly something spinning very fast. Both times the check engine light came on along with the sound, which of course could be a coincidence. Come to think of it, I’ll try to record it for clarity. ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 2:16am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/22 "2016-12-11T02:16:06Z")
Could anyone suggest a good replacement gas cap off of Amazon? 🙂 This is a 2004 Corolla, but the model year is 2005. Thanks! ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 2:20am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/23 "2016-12-11T02:20:02Z")
Go to your local parts store, and tell them you need a replacement gas cap for your vehicle. It’ll probably be made by Stant. Tester ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 2:23am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/24 "2016-12-11T02:23:21Z")
Got it, thanks. When researching error codes, I also found [this piece of info](http://www.autocodes.com/uploads/toyota/EG051-06.pdf) on the filler tube. Is that also something to look at? ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 10:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/25 "2016-12-11T10:50:07Z")
When I see P0441 and P0455 usually the purge line is broken or disconnected. 45 minutes of diagnostic time should give you an accurate estimate. You might find it challenging to find a small shop mechanic that can repair this in one visit. Charcoal canisters generally do not fail and leak, the only reason I have had to replace a canister is when the vent valve has failed and is not available separately. This has nothing to do with over-filling the tank, even if you add 1/2 gallon after the first shut off you would not cause these faults, this is a vapor leak. ---
**Author:** ![JoeMario](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/3bc359/32.png) [@JoeMario](https://community.cartalk.com/u/JoeMario)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 12:15pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/26 "2016-12-11T12:15:16Z")
> [@mycrapcollector](#): > > Still feel like a moron though. Definitely no reason to feel that way. All of us, including many experienced mechanics, have learned numerous lessons the hard way. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 8:21pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/27 "2016-12-11T20:21:50Z")
“Being able to take fair critique is key to being a rational human being . . .” I agree I’m thinking of a guy with an orange combover who does NOT fit that description 😄 He can dish it out, but he can’t take it. The fact that he’ll be president soon doesn’t change his personality. Does it matter . . . we’ll soon find out 😐 Moving on, I would suggest that you let your mechanic do his own diagnosis and repair. Also, let him obtain the parts himself. That’s actually killing 2 birds with one stone. First of all, if he obtains his own parts, he’ll be responsible, should any errors arise, such as a wrong part arriving. Second, he’ll probably warranty the parts for a period of time, unlike if you supply the parts. Also, part of staying in business is making money off of the parts. A fair markup is to be expected. It’s the nature of the business As for learning things the hard way, that’s life. There’s probably not one mechanic alive who hasn’t learned lessons the hard way. The key is learning from those experiences and not making the same mistakes again. I can’t speak for other professions, but I imagine it’s similar ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 9:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/28 "2016-12-11T21:13:31Z")
[quote=“db4690, post:27, topic:96982, full:true”] Moving on, I would suggest that you let your mechanic do his own diagnosis and repair. [/quote] Which one, the new mechanic I just found, or the one who already priced the canister replacement? Here’s the result of their diagnostics, for which I was charged $60: “leak in evap control canister” (which is what P0456 and P0455 are for small and large leak, respectively) and an estimate for $600 to replace the canister. No information about testing other components. Does this look like proper diagnostics to you? Should I bug him with questions, or should I just talk to another one? This car has low mileage (65K), but I’ve been thinking to get a new one anyway, so does it make sense to just jump into suggested repair based on this diagnostics report? ---
**Author:** ![MY\_2\_CENTS](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/22d042/32.png) [@MY\_2\_CENTS](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MY_2_CENTS)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 10:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/29 "2016-12-11T22:08:41Z")
I’d have the new mechanic look at it. Those codes don’t necessarily mean the canister itself is leaking. They mean there is a leak in the evap system. It could be as simple as a leaking hose. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 10:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/30 "2016-12-11T22:13:12Z")
My statement was meant for whatever mechanic you assign the job to Check this out . . . it’s related to P0456 > **[M.I.L.\_ON\_DTC\_P0456\_ONLY\_T-EG030-05.pdf](https://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/M.I.L._ON_DTC_P0456_ONLY_T-EG030-05.pdf)** > > 63.44 KB This might be the reason why that mechanic wanted to replace the canister ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 10:22pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/31 "2016-12-11T22:22:47Z")
> [@db4690](#): > > My statement was meant for whatever mechanic you assign the job to > > Check this out . . . it’s related to P0456 > > [http://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/M.I.L.\_ON\_DTC\_P0456\_ONLY\_T-EG030-05.pdf](http://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/M.I.L._ON_DTC_P0456_ONLY_T-EG030-05.pdf) > > This might be the reason why that mechanic wanted to replace the canister Well, from looking at the VINs, I seem to already have the “improved” canister. I may point the new guy to this document, thanks. ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 10:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/32 "2016-12-11T22:25:46Z")
> [@MY\_2\_CENTS](#): > > I’d have the new mechanic look at it. Those codes don’t necessarily mean the canister itself is leaking. They mean there is a leak in the evap system. It could be as simple as a leaking hose. Got it, thanks. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 10:26pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/33 "2016-12-11T22:26:54Z")
Here’s something else I am by no means suggesting this is your problem, but it’s interesting reading. And it’s something to keep in the back of your mind, if proper diagnosis is followed, and everything else is ruled out. Personally, I kind of doubt this is your problem. The reason for my doubt . . . everything has apparently been fine all these years. If the pcm really as the problem, I’d expect these codes would have shown up several years ago > **[M.I.L.\_ON\_DTC\_P0171,\_P0441,\_AND\_OR\_PO455\_T-EG041-07.pdf](https://www.toyotaparts.metro-toyota.com/M.I.L._ON_DTC_P0171,_P0441,_AND_OR_PO455_T-EG041-07.pdf)** > > 86.50 KB Considering what you said about your VIN, it’s possible this also doesn’t apply Good luck 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 11, 2016, 11:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/34 "2016-12-11T23:55:02Z")
> [@db4690](#): > > Considering what you said about your VIN, it’s possible this also doesn’t apply[/quote] > Just to be sure… One of the VIN series shown there is JTDBR3#E#70136806. > The characters of my VIN down to “701…” fit the one above, after which I have “456…” \< “701…” If we assume that VIN digits increase with production date, does this mean I am affected? It’s also the case with the document you posted earlier, i.e. they have “503…” and I have “456…” > Around 2012, this Corolla was recalled for replacing the on board computer and I wonder if that’s the part that was replaced (something about the circuit board cracks developing at low temperature). I can find out on Thursday, because there’s another recall service (unrelated to evap stuff) I am getting at the same dealership. > > [quote]Good luck 🙂 Thanks! This is turning out to be far more challenging than I thought. 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![PvtPublic](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/pvtpublic/32/13089_2.png) [@PvtPublic](https://community.cartalk.com/u/PvtPublic)\ **Post date:** [December 12, 2016, 12:32am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/35 "2016-12-12T00:32:56Z")
> [@mycrapcollector](#): > > Sadly, I do “top off” to get the nearest “5” or a “0” as the last digit on my total Rounding to the next nickel does not even qualify as topping off. 4 ounces more after the pump cuts off will have no effect what so ever. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [December 12, 2016, 1:47am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/36 "2016-12-12T01:47:06Z")
Here’s how you can find out if you have the updated pcm or not . . . Next time you visit your mechanic, whoever that turns out to be, ask him to use his scanner to retrieve the part number and/or software version of the pcm. Then you can compare it to that bulletin I posted. Even if you do have an old pcm that “needs” to be updated, I still kind of doubt that is the cause of your problems ---
**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2016, 1:33am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/37 "2016-12-13T01:33:15Z")
> [@mycrapcollector](#): > > Oh god. Sadly, I do “top off” to get the nearest “5” or a “0” as the last digit on my total – for absolutely no good reason. Now I feel like an idiot. Don’t feel like that. It’s been my experience that very few people are aware that “topping off” the gas tank can damage the charcoal canister on some cars, especially older ones and especially if it’s done repeatedly for years on end. The charcoal canister is what the tank breaths through, the charcoal catching the hydrocarbon molecules, but “topping off” can cause saturation of the charcoal and prevent proper breathing of the system. Follow insightful’s advice and hopefully it’ll clear. One test that can be run is a “smoke test”. Smoke is pumped into the system with a special machine and it’ll visibly leak out if there’s a leak in the system, however since it’s pumped in through the fill pipe it unfortunately cannot detect a bad gas cap seal. A good visual inspection can, however. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2016, 2:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/38 "2016-12-13T02:31:58Z")
mountainbike I’m afraid you’re only half correct There are adapters to introduce smoke through the evap test port . . . which is typically in the engine bay. This does allow you to view the smoke leaking past a rotten fuel filler cap seal. This is by far the more common method, for vehicles that actually do have a test port. this is my preferred method, because it DOES take the fuel filler cap into account. Once you remove the fuel filler cap, you have already disturbed the system. There are also adapters to introduce smoke through the filler pipe. This is the less common method ---
**Author:** ![mycrapcollector](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mycrapcollector](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mycrapcollector)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2016, 5:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/39 "2016-12-13T17:08:41Z")
Here is my update. I actually had to call a few mechanics to get an appointment, because not everyone (if they are not crooks) is equipped for this. One said right away “this requires a smoke test, which I can’t do” and went on researching the Toyota bulletins. Anyhow, I got an appt for Dec 27. In the meantime, I fear going to the local dealer for recall service on Thursday. They always do that cat from Shrek and beg to replace everything, or else the car will cause immediate nuclear fallout. ---
**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\ **Post date:** [December 13, 2016, 7:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982/40 "2016-12-13T19:09:29Z")
> [@mycrapcollector](#): > > They always do that cat from Shrek and beg to replace everything, or else the car will cause immediate nuclear fallout. You can say the word " No " can’t you. No thank you but I will think about it works even better. [Previous page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982.md?page=1) [Next page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/evap-control-errors/96982.md?page=3)