may be but the fed and state governments are doing everything to force people to switch
The EGR valve is at the back of the engine
Anyways, make sure the black vacuum hoses that are attached to the valve(s) arenāt rotted
This is what the solenoid looks like
Make sure the vacuum hoses going to and from the solenoid are also good
Donāt just look to see if the hoses are present and accounted for . . . make sure theyāre not dry rotted, split, etc.
Looks like if you buy the valve, the solenoid comes with it
For an E320 V6 3.2L Iām, seeing about $200 for the EGR valve & 1 1/2 hours to replace. No cost info for the solenoid, but it takes about 1/2 hour to replace. If the solenoid goes for $150 say, total parts cost is $400 for the two. Probably requires a gasket and maybe some other small items, say another $100, so $500 for the parts. 2 hours labor is going to cost another $400 say, so up to $900 already. $200 for the EGR valve is a pretty good price. I think I paid $100 for that part on my Ford truck.
As I mentioned above, replacing an EGR valve is a pretty common repair. Failing to repair this problem could prevent your car from passing emissions testing, and it could result in expensive to repair engine parts overheating. Suggest to not defer.
He is only replacing EGR valve and not the solenoid. I will ask him to check on the black vaccuum hoses. Should he change the solenoid too? He did quote me first on it. Now he is not including it. Perhaps its okay. thank u
| db4690
May 31 |
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The EGR valve is at the back of the engine . . . I think you might actually have 2
Anyways, make sure the black vacuum hoses that are attached to the valve(s) arenāt rotted
This is what the solenoid looks like
Make sure the vacuum hoses going to and from the solenoid are also good
Donāt just look to see if the hoses are present and accounted for . . . make sure theyāre not dry rotted, split, etc.
Thanks. I will check on the prices with the dealer tomorrow. I dont think he is including the solenoid but will check.
| George_San_Jose1
May 31 |
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For an E320 V6 3.2L Iām, seeing about $200 for the EGR valve & 1 1/2 hours to replace. No cost info for the solenoid, but it takes about 1/2 hour to replace. If the solenoid goes for $150 say, total parts cost is $400 for the two. Probably requires a gasket and maybe some other small items, say another $100, so $500 for the parts. 2 hours labor is going to cost another $400 say, so up to $900 already. $200 for the EGR valve is a pretty good pTanksrice. I think I paid $100 for that part on my Ford truck.
The dealer quoted 277 for EGR valve. 230 for solenoid. 3.4 hours of labor. Per unit labor cost of 265.00. Total 1408. AFter discount will make it around 1000 something. I have to admit the labor rate is on the high side. Thats CA for you. I was wrong in using 150.
These parts were replaced and I picked up car this weekend. I paid 1100.00 for it. Unit labor cost of @265 for 3 hours plus parts. Anyway on Monday morning the check engine light came back again. I call the workshop and ask them whats the purpose of these costly repairs?? No answer , sir bring it back again. Ridiculous - what do I do???
You take the vehicle back and tell them that any more work will require your approval . It may be something simple or another separate problem .
This is why Iād rather do the work myself if at all possible. Even if I have to throw parts at it. Unfortunately, when a shop diagnoses an issue, repairs it, and the diagnosis was wrong - Iāve never seen them offer a refund.
In my opinion, the shop youāve been going to doesnāt know how to properly diagnose, repair and most importantly VERIFY the repair
But my gut feeling at this point is that they didnāt diagnose it properly in the first place
Youāll probably have to go to another shop and hope that that some middle-aged guy with very good diagnostic skills, common sense, experience and patience handles it
Iām assuming the exact same code keeps reoccurring, correct?
What you need is for āthe guy who can diagnose anythingā to take over
And if that IS whoās been working on the car . . . you need another shop
Not all mechanics are created equal
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Your first post mentioned two problems, EGR system and Evap system. Maybe the EGR is fixed, but still a problem w/the Evap. Or visa versa. If you post the current diagnostic code(s) folks here you may get some ideas. As posted above, best path now is to just re-schedule your car back into the shop for a look-see. Ask your shop what the diagnostics code(s) are.
When the CEL turns on and diagnostic codes are posted, the codes donāt identify exactly what is causing the problem. The codes just provide a clue for the techās where to look. By way of example, my Corollaās OBD I system has a diagnostic code for when it detects an EGR system problem. The computer is able to measure the temperature of the EGR valve, and when the EGR opens and allows hot exhaust to flow back to the intake, the EGR temperature should go up. The computer knows when the EGR valve should be open, and if the temperature doesnāt go up as expected, then it turns on the CEL with the EGR code. Several different problems could be the cause for this EGR code:
- The valveās vacuum signal input says āopenā, but it is stuck closed. EGR needs replacement.
- The vacuum input says open, it does open, but the corresponding engine passages are blocked. EGR valve is ok, techs need to clean passages.
- The vacuum input is telling the EGR to stay closed, when it should be telling it to open. EGR vacuum modulator may need replacement.
- The vacuum input is correct, the valve opens as it should, the passages are clear, but the EGR temperature sensor has failed.
etc, etc, I think you get the idea.
I realize this is frustrating. But you have a 17 year old vehicle, right? So almost every part is 17 years old. Think about this situationā¦ A modern car is a very complicated electro-mechanical, many moving parts, computer-controlled gadget on wheels. Got to expect some problems cropping up at 17 years. Suggest to expect considerably more problems developing in the future. Hopefully those will wait a few years to start 
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On the other hand, this is a 17-year old vehicle
Not a state-of-the-art car
The fact that the shop canāt figure this out means time for a better shop, imo
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Speaking of a vehicle which is definitely not state-of-the-art, the best way to tell if the EGR function is (more or less) working on my 50 year old truck is manually apply vacuum to the EGR input, and verify this stalls the idling engine. A few years ago it failed this test, so I replaced the EGR valve, the part itself was quite expensive, over $100. I diy test my 30 year old Corollaās EGR valve the same way. Knocking on wood ā¦ it has never failed.
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Thanks for explaining it well. The shop had the car for 2 weeks. I suspect the light was not going off. They handed it to me as soon as it turned off on their watch. Unfortunately its back on. I get it , its an old car and codes are only indicators not binary. However u are speaking only from mechanic perspective. My question was from a customer perspective. I am sending it back when time allows but its on them to find and fix the damn light. I will get the codes and post it.
Really? Not around here. Dealer rate is $150/hr. Good independent is under $100. Thatās a 50% increase from independent to dealer.
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The fact the CEL came on again does not necessarily mean it is related to the work that was done. As mentioned, itās a 17 year old car subject to parts failure at anytime.
What state do you live in? If not CA and HI most chain car parts stores will check your car for codes for free. This a DTC only provided to you; it is not meant to be a full on diagnosis.
My suggestion is to get an actual number and go from there before making a blind assumption.
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OP said above (post 45) their repair shop is located in Calif. I didnāt realize the Calif govāt refuse to authorize auto parts stores to offer their customers the courtesy to read OBD II codes. hmmm ā¦ more proof that rude govāt behavior rules in Calif ā¦ lol ā¦
Iāve never asked my auto parts store about code reading b/c my vehicles are OBD I and no-OBD.
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I can promise you that no doctor is doing 20 patients per hour. With the constant threat of malpractice, they have reviewed your records beforehand, and then documented the visit afterwards. And, working under the direction of the doctor are a whole lot of staff who do not bill.
Disclosure: I am not a doctor, and I appreciate thoroughly the mechanics I have found who are working independently. I donāt even know their hourly rate.