# Electrical problems

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** thunderbird, ford\
**Created:** [August 14, 2009, 2:21pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046 "2009-08-14T14:21:38Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 17\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 2:21pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/1 "2009-08-14T14:21:38Z")

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i have 1994 ford t bird with a 4.6L sometimes it want crank it will turn over but wont start i have to take the battery cable off for about 30mins then it will crank.it does it every so often. it dont matter if the engine is hot or cold.do anybody no what i should be looking for to fix this

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**Author:** ![Xebadaih](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/x/d07c76/32.png) [@Xebadaih](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Xebadaih)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 2:39pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/2 "2009-08-14T14:39:21Z")

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Bad grammar is a major road block to asking a coherent question.

What does “sometimes it want crank it will turn over” mean?

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**Author:** ![Gary123](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/c37758/32.png) [@Gary123](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Gary123)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 2:53pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/3 "2009-08-14T14:53:47Z")

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My guess. Scrape those battery posts and connecting clamp surfaces … what looks like metal can be lead oxide (a good electrical insulator).

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 3:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/4 "2009-08-14T15:10:39Z")

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it might crank up for days then all of a sudden it will just turn over this last time it worked for about a week then yesterday it crunk up about 4 times on the 5 times it just turned over until i took the cable off for 30 mins

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 3:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/5 "2009-08-14T15:12:38Z")

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i scraped the cables and the battery and it still happens i put a new battery in and it still happens it turns over good just waont crank

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**Author:** ![tardis](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/f0a364/32.png) [@tardis](https://community.cartalk.com/u/tardis)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 3:26pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/6 "2009-08-14T15:26:14Z")

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When the problem (no start condition) happens, is the PATS light (red light on the top of the dashboard, near the windshield) flashing?

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**Author:** ![vtcodger2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/e68b1a/32.png) [@vtcodger2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/vtcodger2)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 3:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/7 "2009-08-14T15:30:34Z")

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Since it turns over, it’s probably not the battery. Unless the cranking when it won’t start is extremely unenthusiastic, I think you can sort of push the battery and starter to the back of your mind. More likely the problem is fuel or ignition. If there is a Schraeder valve (looks like the valves on your tires) on the engine hardware near where the fuel lines come in, you can check the fuel pressure with an inexpensive meter – around $20 or $30, In general, US cars tend to have Schraeder valves, Japanese tend not to which means a more costly meter and some aggravation connecting it.

I’d check the fuel pressure first because it’s easier (if there is a Schraeder valve) and because you are less likely to earn yourself a harmless, but painful, high voltage shock.

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 3:42pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/8 "2009-08-14T15:42:19Z")

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the next time it wont crank i will look for this light. what do that mean if its flashing

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**Author:** ![tardis](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/f0a364/32.png) [@tardis](https://community.cartalk.com/u/tardis)\
**Post date:** [August 14, 2009, 3:48pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/9 "2009-08-14T15:48:01Z")

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It will flash rapidly if there is a PATS issue. This probably is not going to be your problem since PATS normally also prevents the starter from operating. However, I thought I would throw it out there. Here is another thought too. Next time you have the no-start issue, feel the outside of the ECU to see if it is warm. You might have some sort of electronic latch up issue. I’ve seen those before. Of course, if this were the case you should also be seeing a drained battery sometimes.

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [November 9, 2009, 7:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/10 "2009-11-09T19:13:14Z")

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i dont get a spark when the car decides not to crank. i was wondering would the crank sensor be the problem.is it possible for the sensor to work intermittly?

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**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\
**Post date:** [November 9, 2009, 9:20pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/11 "2009-11-09T21:20:34Z")

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So we can all get on the same page (I hate that phrase) Could you please say “cranks but won’t start” when you sympton appears? When you say “won’t crank” this means no activity from the starter.

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [November 9, 2009, 10:11pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/12 "2009-11-09T22:11:14Z")

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it will turn over but wont start i can take the battery cable off about 30min or i can wait until the next day it will start

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**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\
**Post date:** [November 9, 2009, 11:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/13 "2009-11-09T23:09:42Z")

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Lets put our heads together and try to figure out why removing the battery cable for 30 min allows this vehicle to fire up.

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**Author:** ![hellokit](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/6a8cbe/32.png) [@hellokit](https://community.cartalk.com/u/hellokit)\
**Post date:** [November 9, 2009, 11:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/14 "2009-11-09T23:12:25Z")

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The ignition (spark) system appears to be at the core of your problem. You want a short cut for a fix. Unfortunately, at times like this, there aren’t any. You COULD start changing out parts to see what happens; but, you need a more organized method of troubleshooting than that. For troubleshooting, you need the repair manual as a guide. Also, a multimeter is indispensable.  
The other viable choice is to let an able mechanic perform the troubleshooting and repair.

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [November 10, 2009, 2:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/15 "2009-11-10T14:03:07Z")

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i have a multimeter and book i bought from advance i will run down the ignition system and see what i find.i have a degree in electronics so i hopw that will help me find whats wrong thanks again

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**Author:** ![ttaite](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/b5ac83/32.png) [@ttaite](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ttaite)\
**Post date:** [January 4, 2010, 5:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/16 "2010-01-04T17:09:55Z")

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i fixed my problem. the crank sensor was the reason why the car wouldn’t start. but i have another problem now. my heater on this car 1994 t bird 4.6 it works for a little while then it starts blowing cool air it will work about 15mins then i have to turn it up some. that will work for a while then it starts blowing cold air do anybody know what this could be? please advise me. thanks in advance

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**Author:** ![hellokit](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/6a8cbe/32.png) [@hellokit](https://community.cartalk.com/u/hellokit)\
**Post date:** [January 4, 2010, 7:53pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electrical-problems/35046/17 "2010-01-04T19:53:32Z")

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It’s great that you found the cause of the no-start ----- the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor is part of the ignition system, and I hope you found it as a result of following the troubleshooting chart for no-starts.

You will get more responses about you heat problem if you start a new post.  
Check the level of coolant in the RADIATOR. A low level can cause a loss of heat in the cabin.
