# Electric windows

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Created:** [July 25, 2007, 3:10am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174 "2007-07-25T03:10:03Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![jerrymorris](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/838e76/32.png) [@jerrymorris](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jerrymorris)\
**Post date:** [July 25, 2007, 3:10am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/1 "2007-07-25T03:10:03Z")

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My '94 Explorer’s right passenger window doesn’t work. With the drivers door or the passenger door.

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**Author:** ![MG-McAnick](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mg-mcanick/32/188_2.png) [@MG-McAnick](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MG-McAnick)\
**Post date:** [July 25, 2007, 4:30am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/2 "2007-07-25T04:30:08Z")

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If you listen closly at the door, do you hear ANYTHING when you press the button? If you hear anything at all, you may need new regulator or motor. If you hear nothing, you may well need a new switch. I had a Taurus in yesterday with the same problem. The passenger door switch was bad.

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**Author:** ![jtsanders](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c2a13f/32.png) [@jtsanders](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jtsanders)\
**Post date:** [July 25, 2007, 11:38pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/3 "2007-07-25T23:38:33Z")

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You can check to see if current gets to the motor with a voltmeter. The first step is to check for current at the switch, since it is easier to get to. Take the switch out of the door and put the electrodes into the connector. If you read voltage or current, you need to check at the motor. You will need to remove the door panel and peel back the plastic shield. Then check for current or voltage at the motor. If you have it, replace the motor and regulator together. You can find them on line for about $70.

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**Author:** ![nbpt100](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/9f8e36/32.png) [@nbpt100](https://community.cartalk.com/u/nbpt100)\
**Post date:** [August 9, 2007, 1:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/4 "2007-08-09T01:49:58Z")

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An easy way to tell if you are getting power to the switch is to open the door, put the ignician on accessory, and watch the dome light as you activate the window switch. If the dome light dims, you are drawing power. If that happens it is very likely the window lift motor.

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**Author:** ![jtsanders](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c2a13f/32.png) [@jtsanders](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jtsanders)\
**Post date:** [August 9, 2007, 11:37pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/5 "2007-08-09T23:37:18Z")

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It could also be the regulator. I’d just replace the regulator and motor at the same time for about $70. You can order them on line and they are simple to put in.

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**Author:** ![armtdm](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/armtdm/32/26_2.png) [@armtdm](https://community.cartalk.com/u/armtdm)\
**Post date:** [August 10, 2007, 7:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/6 "2007-08-10T07:49:58Z")

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for dealer to do the job 300 plus.

I have one where the windoe only works when the temo is less then 90 or so. hot humid days and nothing happens, cools off and it works again

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**Author:** ![Joseph\_E\_Meehan](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/joseph_e_meehan/32/21_2.png) [@Joseph\_E\_Meehan](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Joseph_E_Meehan)\
**Post date:** [August 10, 2007, 10:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/electric-windows/2174/7 "2007-08-10T10:03:07Z")

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Also consider the possibility of a wire broken where it goes between the door and the pillar  
(hinge side)
