Could be an intermittent problem with the alternator. If that happened to me, I’d put a volt meter in the passenger compartment monitoring the battery voltage so I could see it while I was driving. I’m guessing the alternator voltage was intermittently dropping below 12 volts, causing the dashboard battery warning light to turn on. Not necessarily a faulty alternator btw, could be a slipping belt.
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George, I changed the belt out before and no fix. Like i said I had it tested multiple times and it passed. I plan to take it to an auto parts store and test again. Maybe even might have it repaired too.
You might check the alternator pulley to make sure it’s getting a good bite on the belt. With the engine off of course, put a wrench or socket on the alternator pulley nut and try to rotate the pulley against the belt.
It should be difficult if not impossible to move the pulley against the belt.
I am huge fan of junk yard alternators for older cars. I typically have way better luck than store brand alternators. And they are much cheaper.
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If the failed alternator is in a car that I depend on for reliability, or if the alternator is in a labor-intensive place to remove-and-replace, then I’ll pay the money to buy a good alternator. There’s a good automotive electric shop nearby that does quality rebuilding right there.
Otherwise, if I have time, I’ll rebuild it myself or I’ll install a less expensive Duralast brand. A few years back I installed a lifetime Autozone alternator where it took three alternators before I got one that worked. That was only that one time.
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No I’ve checked that, it was fine. I’m pretty sure the old one the voltage regulator was going bad. Anyway, seems the duralast is preforming well.
Any idea what a shop might charge to rebuild an Alternator?
Hi John:
I do not. Call places in your local area.
Somewhere between affordable and outrageous.
Ha, you’re probably right on that one
Depends on the alternator and what needs to be done. If all that’s needed is to replace the brushes, probably around $30. Bearings needed too? Around $60-$75 for brushes and bearings I’d guess. Diodes too? Maybe $100-150 for brushes, bearings, and diodes. If there’s a problem with a circuit board, or the case is cracked, probably not $$ -wise affordable compared to just buying a new or off-shore rebuilt one. I expect in most cases just replacing the diodes or just the brushes will be all that’s required.
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Plan to take it in when I get the time. Interesting enough I took it in to autozone and it passed their test 4 different times so maybe the connecter was causing the light to trip.
My Kia van is very difficult to replace an alternator on because it is a van and the engine is transverse. I would not advise Duralast. The original OEM part lasted 15 years. The Duralast only 3 years. The shop was an hour’s drive away so not an option even though it is under warranty. I am ordering genuine Kia alternator this time even though it costs about $200 more. If it were in the open I wouldn’t mind the labor. Besides I don’t want to get stranded along the road again.
Welcome to the forum @kleenmaint_191384. I like your post. It’s a little late though since the original post was 7 years ago. Look in the upper right corner of the post last post before yours and you can see when the last response was. Come back again and continue with good posts like this.
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It is too late to object to installing cheap, unreliable parts on your car?
Seems like a problem that people will encounter forever.
@kleenmaint_191384 makes a good point that the best replacement-part strategy depends on how much labor is involved. Replacing he alternator of the mid-engine Porsche Boxster probably takes even more labor than that.
AZ is the last place I would buy anything electrical from, mostly junk, I have had to warranty way to many parts from AZ that other shops had installed… AZ talks a good talk, and they will cover labor expenses, and you will learn that using their junk parts… lol
Now if they carry a NGK or Denso or other name brand not a Dura-never-last part, then I am OK, but nothing with the AZ brand name on it, there is a reason it is cheap…
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They’ve actually carried NGK for years…well sort of. They do sell them, but very very limited supply. Back arouind 2000, I went there to buy NGK plugs for my wife’s 1996 Accord. They said all they carried for that car were Autolite (which is junk). I’d have to special order NGK’s for that vehicle at an extra cost and will take 2 weeks. Someone explain to me why an Autoparts store wouldn’t carry plugs in stock for the #1 selling car on the road. AZ is fine for wax and carpet cleaner, but for real parts I go to a real parts store.
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