# Door locks

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** doors, locks\
**Created:** [February 14, 2009, 6:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454 "2009-02-14T18:10:14Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![95bmw530](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/9/b5a626/32.png) [@95bmw530](https://community.cartalk.com/u/95bmw530)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 6:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/1 "2009-02-14T18:10:14Z")

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2 Problems: I have a 95 bmw, the driver rear door lock no longer goes up and down with the remote or key. About the same time my battery began draining and goes dead in 2 weeks of no driving. I replaced the battery and it still happens.

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**Author:** ![cappy208](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cappy208/32/31_2.png) [@cappy208](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cappy208)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 6:15pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/2 "2009-02-14T18:15:11Z")

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probably a shorted out electrical motor to the door unlock. may be that this is what is draining your battery too. recently a post on related subject mentioned frequent door lock mechanism corrosion and jamming up.

probably start by opening up and inspecting/cleaning/lubricating the lock mechanism. and since the one is sticking, likely that all will soon need attention.

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**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 6:23pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/3 "2009-02-14T18:23:11Z")

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Another possibility is a high resistance short to ground in the wiring harness going between the body structure and the door. As these flex with the repeated opening and closing of the door they can fray and chaf.

Remember that in order for the door lock to function remotely, its power lead has to be kept “hot” even when the car is off. A high resistance short to ground would drain the battery.

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**Author:** ![95bmw530](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/9/b5a626/32.png) [@95bmw530](https://community.cartalk.com/u/95bmw530)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 6:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/4 "2009-02-14T18:24:14Z")

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thank you for responding. I will check it out. While I have taken off door panels on older cars, I have not removed the ones for the bmw. How do I remove door panel?

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**Author:** ![cappy208](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cappy208/32/31_2.png) [@cappy208](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cappy208)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 6:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/5 "2009-02-14T18:30:00Z")

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i wouldn’t even try to help on that, since it is usual to break plastic clips, brackets and other stuff off. i remove my own door panels, but not others. too many possibilities to make enemies! trial and error, unscrewing arm rest, door locks etc etc. lifting, nudging, prying, and shoving. different areas, peeking behind the panel, seeing where resistance is felt, and using long, plastic handles (or paint stirring sticks) to help lift and unclip the clips. all in all a PITA. then, once you get the panel off, trying to cleanly lift or cut the weather tight plastic cover off. putting the door back without a ‘tight’ weather strip panel is useless, cause the car is noisier, colder and you will regret not having the car ‘tight’ again.

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**Author:** ![95bmw530](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/9/b5a626/32.png) [@95bmw530](https://community.cartalk.com/u/95bmw530)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 6:37pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/6 "2009-02-14T18:37:49Z")

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Thanks, lots of information and tips. I appreciate it alot!

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**Author:** ![meaneyedcatz](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/meaneyedcatz/32/692_2.png) [@meaneyedcatz](https://community.cartalk.com/u/meaneyedcatz)\
**Post date:** [February 14, 2009, 10:38pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/7 "2009-02-14T22:38:55Z")

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sounds as if the lock actuator is worn out.

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**Author:** ![Roadrunner](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d2c977/32.png) [@Roadrunner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Roadrunner)\
**Post date:** [February 15, 2009, 1:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/door-locks/26454/8 "2009-02-15T01:45:18Z")

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Well, however you’re going to fix this, the fact remains the door has to be opened first.

Find a slim jim and get the door open then you can remove the panel. A slim jim is a thin flat notched bar used to pop car doors open.

Police, tow truck operators and most car thieves carry/use them.

You might save yourself some frustration by buying a $20 Haynes repair manual for your vehicle.

It will describe and illustrate how and what to do.
