# Dohc 2.5 timing

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** subaru, forester\
**Created:** [January 3, 2011, 1:26am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446 "2011-01-03T01:26:23Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 9\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![forester\_gump](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/9dc877/32.png) [@forester\_gump](https://community.cartalk.com/u/forester_gump)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2011, 1:26am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/1 "2011-01-03T01:26:23Z")

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while changing timing belt on my Subaru the camshaft pulleys, and consequently the valves were moved…while the belt was off. what can I do now?

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**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2011, 1:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/2 "2011-01-03T01:31:10Z")

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You have a service manual don’t you?? The cam pulley’s and the crank pulley will all have timing marks that must be lined up in a precise manner, checked twice, and that’s that…No room for error here…

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**Author:** ![forester\_gump](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/9dc877/32.png) [@forester\_gump](https://community.cartalk.com/u/forester_gump)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2011, 2:04am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/3 "2011-01-03T02:04:19Z")

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Thanks Caddyman,  
Yes I have one now. got into this mess by not setting crank pulley to TDC before i started. Yeah, I feel dumber than a "box a’ choclits"  
OK. did that.  
However, Checking my work. when i turn the crank pulley …after the new belt is on…to be sure that everything is OK before starting, I feel tension as I come to the end of the first complete revolution. More than the rest of the turn. Not impassible but enough to make me wonder.  
Is it possible I have misaligned the valves by inadvertently moving the camshafts beyond the freeplay zone, even though the marks now line up?

Can the valves be seen by taking off the intake and or exhaust manifolds?

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**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2011, 2:27am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/4 "2011-01-03T02:27:34Z")

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If the crankshaft is turned 30\* before top dead center the pistons are all down far enough that you can turn the camshafts any which way you wish and the valves can’t hit the pistons. Does that help?

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**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2011, 2:43am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/5 "2011-01-03T02:43:26Z")

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When turning the engine over by hand, you will feel considerable differences in resistance as the cylinders compress and decompress…Also, the camshafts do not turn with a constant load. That changes quickly as the cam lobes open and close the valves…As long as the three marks line up as described in the shop manual, you should be good to go…The cam marks will only line up every other revolution of the crankshaft, that’s okay, they turn at 1/2 engine speed…

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**Author:** ![mark9207](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mark9207](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mark9207)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2011, 3:50am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/6 "2011-01-03T03:50:05Z")

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As Rod Knox noted, if you simply turn the crankshaft about 30 degrees before (or after, doesn’t really matter) the TDC mark, you will have the clearance needed to rotate the cams so the valves will not hit the pistons. Align the marks on the cam pulleys, lock the cams (if applicable on this engine), then align the crank pulley mark. Install the belt, rotate the engine by hand a couple times to double check your work, and you should be good to go. No big deal, really.

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**Author:** ![Bladecutter](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/aeb1de/32.png) [@Bladecutter](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Bladecutter)\
**Post date:** [January 4, 2011, 5:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/7 "2011-01-04T17:51:43Z")

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The resistance you are feeling is probably caused by the spark plugs still being ine, and the engine is compressing the air in the combustion chambers.

Remove all the spark plugs, and then turn the engine over.  
I bet that resistance will vanish.

If the resistance if there with no plugs in, then I think you have a major issue.

BC.

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**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\
**Post date:** [January 4, 2011, 6:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/8 "2011-01-04T18:47:09Z")

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Run Forest,run. Is resetting all not possible for some reason?

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [January 4, 2011, 11:17pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/dohc-2-5-timing/59446/9 "2011-01-04T23:17:22Z")

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Everyone else has it pretty well covered. I’d only add that hopefully you replaced the water pump and tensioners at the same time as the belt.
