# Clutch or tranny **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [March 7, 2008, 12:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537 "2008-03-07T12:12:11Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 11\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![ReaperOfWar](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/838e76/32.png) [@ReaperOfWar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ReaperOfWar)\ **Post date:** [March 7, 2008, 12:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/1 "2008-03-07T12:12:11Z")
i have a 94 mitsubishi 3000GT. i was racing a 300ZX and my clutch broke. needless to say i lost $500 cause of my clutch. when i took the tranny out and looked at the clutch. the pressure plate was craked completly in half and the throw out bearing was destroyed. clutch disc had barley any padding left and the flywheel was horribly cracked everywhere. anyways i replaced the entire clutch system including the hydrolic lines master and slave. when i put it back together and started to drive the clutch worked fine for about 5 minuted. then when i tried to accelerate quick the rpms shot up but the car didnt accelerate at all. when i let of the gas the car jerks really hard as if it catches but it still wont accelerate very well. idk what else to do and everyone says its the clutch but every shop wants around 1200 to do the clutch but i dont have enough money to put it in the shop cause something else always comes up. i am open to any suggestions please! ---
**Author:** ![ReaperOfWar](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/838e76/32.png) [@ReaperOfWar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ReaperOfWar)\ **Post date:** [March 7, 2008, 2:35pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/2 "2008-03-07T14:35:58Z")
i really need some input! ---
**Author:** ![Joseph\_E\_Meehan](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/joseph_e_meehan/32/21_2.png) [@Joseph\_E\_Meehan](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Joseph_E_Meehan)\ **Post date:** [March 7, 2008, 5:00pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/3 "2008-03-07T17:00:37Z")
Well I would guess no one can tell you want you want to hear. If you need a new clutch, you need one. I have no idea if you may have made an error replacing it, (You did replace the flywheel?) or if you got some bad part etc. But if appears that fixing it is going to cost you $1,200. ---
**Author:** ![ReaperOfWar](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/838e76/32.png) [@ReaperOfWar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ReaperOfWar)\ **Post date:** [March 7, 2008, 5:29pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/4 "2008-03-07T17:29:32Z")
i replaced everything i can just short of the tranny. i have pulled it apart this time right now makes it 4 times to inspect everything and return the parts for new ones. should i put it together and take in to like aamco to see if its the tranny? i wouldnt think it would be the tranny cause its only 3yrs old at the most. ---
**Author:** ![researcher](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/edb3f5/32.png) [@researcher](https://community.cartalk.com/u/researcher)\ **Post date:** [March 7, 2008, 7:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/5 "2008-03-07T19:07:27Z")
Something is odd here. Did you replace the disk with something other than OEM? Something exotic like ceramic or carbon fiber? Is the replacement disk the correct thickness? Does the pressure plate match the disk being used? Are you sure that the release system is not holding the pressure plate partially released? ---
**Author:** ![pleasedodgevan](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/51bf81/32.png) [@pleasedodgevan](https://community.cartalk.com/u/pleasedodgevan)\ **Post date:** [March 7, 2008, 10:40pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/6 "2008-03-07T22:40:42Z")
People used to put clutch discs in backwards. Maybe yours has that problem or the adjustment is off. Some can be adjusted under the dash. ---
**Author:** ![ReaperOfWar](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/838e76/32.png) [@ReaperOfWar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ReaperOfWar)\ **Post date:** [March 8, 2008, 2:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/7 "2008-03-08T14:03:27Z")
all the parts have come from autozone and i have gotten new parts 4 times making sure each of them match up to the originial. everything is tock oem. im about to take out the entire clutch so i will be back to descride what the parts look like and maybe we can figure something out from there. ---
**Author:** ![cappy208](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cappy208/32/31_2.png) [@cappy208](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cappy208)\ **Post date:** [March 8, 2008, 3:16pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/8 "2008-03-08T15:16:46Z")
as a stock machine you are exceeding the capabilities of your car. racing is killing your car. then you replace the parts with stock “oem” stuff from autozone? IMHO autozone is only for regular parts, cheap parts and nothing special parts. never mind that your dilemma isn’t helped by a faulty clutch rebuild. do you have a shop repair manual for your car? (not a chiltons or haynes) the shop manuals spell out exactly how to repair this stuff. they cost around 100 or so, but they are great to help you get through a correct repair. ---
**Author:** ![ReaperOfWar](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/838e76/32.png) [@ReaperOfWar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ReaperOfWar)\ **Post date:** [March 8, 2008, 10:43pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/9 "2008-03-08T22:43:51Z")
no i do not have a shop manual because they cost around 300. i took apart the clutch and it shows even wear where the throwout grabs the pressure plate. also shows even wear on the pressure and clutch disc grab. the fly wheel shows even wear except for 2 very small burn spots from where it looks like the clutch tried to grad. im starting to think it is a hydrolic issue so i replaced the slave and master again and i am currently putting it back together. ---
**Author:** ![Beefy\_Norm](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a4c791/32.png) [@Beefy\_Norm](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Beefy_Norm)\ **Post date:** [March 8, 2008, 10:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/10 "2008-03-08T22:55:51Z")
Take out the Ss in Mitsubishi and you’re left with Mit U Bi Hi, and it seems like you are. You either have the wrong clutch assembly in the car or you have a warped output shaft which is not allowing the clutch assembly to fully engage or disengage. At this point you are probably going to have to replace both clutch and transmission because the clutch is probably burned out again (Or at least scored too badly to be useful), and the time and money it takes to replace the output shaft will be more then buying a rebuilt transmission. ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [March 8, 2008, 11:39pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/clutch-or-tranny/11537/11 "2008-03-08T23:39:08Z")
You should be able to get an on-line ALLDATA subscription for 25 a year. It’s not perfect but it’s far, far better than a Chiltons or Haynes manual. No idea on what the problem here is but you are not getting defective parts that often. This means you’re overlooking something. You’re not installing the clutch disc backwards as mentioned are you? Springs out away from the flywheel bolts?