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Clutch at stop

Oh, and adding the damage to the garage, the dropped clutch tore a slice out of one of the rear tires. Just lifted off a 2" wide piece off the middle of the tread.
@mountainbike, did your Vega have the Saginaw transmission as opposed to the Opel in the earlier models? If so, was it sometimes difficult to shift into gear at a stop?

Having gotten to replace the graphite throwout bearing on several MGs, including my own, I must add that I am one of the “sit in neutral” gang. I do the same on my motorcycle. I just watch for traffic ahead of me to begin moving, or watch for the yellow light signaling the cross traffic to begin stopping. Then I slip into gear.

When stopped with clutch disengaged the flywheel and pressure plate are spinning at engine RPM but the clutch disk is stationary. If left like this during a long light would there be enough heat generated by friction of that sandwiched disk to either shorten the disk life or allow heat slippage at startup, especially if clutch is poorly adjusted or a drag race becomes necessary with the clown in the next lane?

Whitey, your explanation is accepted. Apologies for the misunderstanding.

Kiwi, I don’t honestly know. Whatever it had, it self destucted after only three years.

@Camanobass, I’m sure there is very little heat buildup in a disengaged clutch, don’t worry about it. @McAnick I had a carbon bearing in my '52 Austin A40, so I too am still thinking of that even today.

When I stop at a red light I sit there with my left foot on the brake and the car in Drive, unless I know it is going to be a long light, in such case I might shift to neutral. Oh, I drive an automatic, sorry!
I might add that if your foot slips of the clutch, while in gear, you most probably would stall the engine, not jump out into the intersection.

@Camanobass, I doubt very much if the friction would be much unless the clutch was not adjusted right.

Many years ago, there was a very good reason to sit at a light with the transmission in first gear and the clutch depressed: cars did not have synchromesh in first gear. Coming from that era, I at first naturally left the clutch depressed with the transmission in first gear at lights. After I used up the graphite (!) throwout bearing in the first year in my Sunbeam Alpine, I shifted to neutral and let the clutch out while waiting at lights. This required that before starting out I needed to touch fourth gear with the stick after depressing the clutch in order to stop the transmission and get it into first gear without grinding the gears. I chose to touch fourth rather than second in order to reduce wear on the second gear synchros, which normally get more wear than the fourth gear synchros. Today, when the light turns green I find it easy to depress the clutch, touch fourth gear, and shift into first before the (probably automatic transmission) car next to me has begun to move. With today’s synchro first gears, it is not necessary to touch fourth gear, except for my Neanderthal driving habits. Maybe I do save wear on the first gear synchro.

A manual transmission is Neanderthal anyway!!. Kinda like driving a Model A Ford.

I like Model A Fords.

@4Warned, I have to wonder about your “good reason.” Getting into a non-synchro first gear is the same issue no matter how long you choose to sit there with the clutch in. Synchro wear from this use is so minimal that second for me was an easier option with 4 on the tree on my '52 A40.

the same mountainbike, have you driven a Model A Ford lately? Not many still running.

"I recall the instructor saying it was safer, when stopped at a stoplight, to be in neutral with your foot on the brake - -"
ABSOLUTELY
When you depress the clutch all the way you are wearing the throwout bearing The clutch should be all the way in or out and never held longer then necessary in the depressed position. Not only is it safer, but it’s easier on the clutch. If it takes you longer then a second or so to shift it in gear and move, you need an auto. Not that I completely disagree with Whitey, as I do anticipate the change, but…I try not to sit there very long this way. So count me in with @Barkydog @KiwiME and all the others who know how to correctly wait at a light with a manual.

I hope you are not waiting behind me with your manual in gear !!!

I think your time would be better spent worrying about getting struck by lightning than worrying about someone’s foot slipping off the clutch, and if your throw-out bearing is that fragile, I’d get a better car with a reputation for reliability and longevity.

My 2010 KIA Forte SX 6 speed manual and all 2010 Kia Forte manuals are equipped with a clutch delay valve. The purpose of this abomination is to make it possible for drivers who have no clue how to drive a clutch to be able to do so. On downhill slopes or level ground you can engage the clutch then press the accelerator. It of course does not work on an uphill slope. I learned to drive a clutch when I was 13 years old. I am now 61 years old. It took me 2 months to learn how to use KIA’s clutch delay valve. I can now raise RPMs 100 to 200 above idle and normally engage the clutch. I think the clutch delay valve is a marketing scheme. automatic transmissions cost $1,000. extra. My problem is drivers being sold vehicles with a manual transmission who don’t have a clue how to actually drive them! I stop with my car in neutral, clutch disengaged and right foot on brake.