# Chevy truck starting issue

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** chevrolet, 2500\
**Created:** [January 22, 2011, 4:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289 "2011-01-22T16:09:07Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![wfbvcf](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/97f17d/32.png) [@wfbvcf](https://community.cartalk.com/u/wfbvcf)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2011, 4:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/1 "2011-01-22T16:09:07Z")

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I have a 1998 Chevy K2500 with a 350 engine. 220,000 miles. It starts fine when cold and drives fine. My problem is when I shut the engine off say to get gas or run into a store. When I return to start the truck it will just crank over as if it is not getting gas. If I pump the gas pedal it will fire up after a bit. It will start to stall if I put it into drive but will recover if I continue to pump the throttle. Once I am under way it drives fine until I make another stop. The check engine light is not on.

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**Author:** ![cigroller](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c68b51/32.png) [@cigroller](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cigroller)\
**Post date:** [January 22, 2011, 5:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/2 "2011-01-22T17:08:59Z")

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Next time just floor the throttle and turn the key. If that gets it running (even if it runs rough for a few minutes) then you probably have too much fuel (rather than it not getting enough). The suspects would be a leaking fuel pressure regulator or fuel injector(s) dumping fuel in when you shut the truck down.

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**Author:** ![wfbvcf](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/97f17d/32.png) [@wfbvcf](https://community.cartalk.com/u/wfbvcf)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2011, 12:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/3 "2011-01-29T12:25:34Z")

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Thanks. I think your diagnosis is correct. How much of a pain is it to replace the regulator.

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**Author:** ![cigroller](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c68b51/32.png) [@cigroller](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cigroller)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2011, 1:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/4 "2011-01-29T13:34:49Z")

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Normally its pretty easy though I don’t know the exact setup on your truck. For the few I’ve replaced its basically a 10 minute job.

First you can easily figure out for sure if it is the FPR - the next time you shut it down & it sits hit for a few minutes, pull the vacuum line that is attached to it. There shouldn’t be any liquid gasoline and if there is then it needs to be replaced.

Replacement is normally a matter of a couple of screws and o-rings - after having relieved the pressure in the fuel system. Check out Autozone’s website. They have free online repair guides if you register your email address with them. It should give you something a little more specific.

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**Author:** ![wfbvcf](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/97f17d/32.png) [@wfbvcf](https://community.cartalk.com/u/wfbvcf)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2011, 2:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/5 "2011-01-29T14:13:42Z")

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My Chilton’s manual says I have to take off the upper intake manifold in order to reach it.

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**Author:** ![system](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/1/d/1d47c66a543aa6c5a7873bb2320858f978ff52ed.png) [@system](https://community.cartalk.com/u/system)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2011, 2:21pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/6 "2011-01-29T14:21:53Z")

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That is correct. The injector/ pressure regulator assembly is in upper intake.

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**Author:** ![cigroller](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/c68b51/32.png) [@cigroller](https://community.cartalk.com/u/cigroller)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2011, 2:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/chevy-truck-starting-issue/60289/7 "2011-01-29T14:32:19Z")

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Ok - so you need more than 10 minutes. Many of them are accessible without removing anything else. All the more reason to try to verify an FPR problem before replacing it.
