Off the top of my head I don’t remember about the Hondas, but some Volvos had them under the passenger front seat and some SAABs had them under the rear seat.
The old VW squarebacks had them inside the rear quarter panel.
Click on that web site that ok4460 showed you. Scroll down about 3 pages to “1986-89 Accord and 1985-91 Prelude”. You’ll see that the engine computer (ECU), with its l.e.d., is under the driver’s seat, The codes are there on that page, also. You can still bring the codes back here for comments.
Thanks everyone for your responses.
I checked the ECU (which was indeed under the driver’s seat) and found that it gave me 12 quick flashes with no pauses…which is a nonsense code, since they’re only supposed to flash in groups of 0 to 9.
Which means that, unless there’s a driveability problem (and there isn’t, it runs just like it did before), I’ll probably just ignore it. I wonder if I should remove the negative battery cable and clear the code…
A code 12 is an EGR system problem. Check it out. When you need to clear the codes you do not need to disconnect battery, just pull the clock fuse in the fuse box under the hood.
transman
I wonder…I had some problems getting the car started this afternoon. I wonder if a problem with the EGR system would cause that? Maybe a stuck EGR valve?
You did not state which model Accord you have, but some are carbureted and some are fuel injected. Stubborn starting can be caused by a faulty choke flap on the carbed models.
Since there’s not enough detail behind the fail to start situation it’s near impossible to narrow it down.
Faulty main relay or ignition switch are possibilities but it needs to be determined if the problem is fuel or spark related.
It’s not likely an EGR problem causing the fail to start. Possible, but not likely.
If you want to check EGR operation connect a small piece of vacuum hose to the EGR valve and suck on the hose while the car is idling. If the engine stumbles and/or dies then the EGR valve itself is working. If it does not stumble at all and you can’t pull a suction on the EGR then the valve is bad. Other possibilities for an EGR code could be clogged passages in the EGR ports or a faulty EGR solenoid.
Since we dont know the engine size or whether it is carbureted or fuel injected, I’m only going to guess with the literature I have on it. My literature shows that the solenoid valve failure is common in these and that the orfice in the EGR solenoid is prone to blockage.
transman
2.0L, fuel-injected. Just checked the EGR valve itself and it doesn’t seem stuck.
Since I seem to be stuck, I’ve decided to let my mechanic have a crack at it.
thats a good idea, there are some test procedures to do to check out the system. Just let your mechanic know that you got a code 12 EGR fault and let him go from there.
thanks for the info…
transman
You were right—the mechanic says that it’s the EGR valve. Not cheap at $400, but it’s within my budget (though it’ll have to be the last major repair).
Wow! $400 to replace an egr valve! Auto Zone auto parts store has the egr valve for $150. So, your mechanic is only charging you $250, for labor, to change the egr valve! I don’t see any "long suffering’ mechanic there. A good cleaning of the egr valve, and the passages to and from it, could be all it needs. Are you sure you don’t know any student mechanics? One would be glad to do this job for, say, $100.
Save your money! Forget the EGR valve! Cars ran fine and humanity survived for 75 years without them. NEVER let a computer generated dash light force you to spend $4, let alone $400…DRIVE ON !!
On second thought, I’m with Caddyman, for a slightly different reason. Initially, I went with the idea of changing the egr valve because of the hard-starting problem you reported. But, consider, the egr problem may be a result of engine condition, not, the cause. The engine is probably burning oil and running rich. This condition will result in a lot of carbon laden egr going into the egr valve. If you fix, or clean, the egr valve, it’ll carbon up again. It’s possible for an egr valve to stick open: but, I doubt that has happened. Just change the spark plugs more often, and forget about the egr valve.
it’s an 89. Peel the passenger carpet back and count the flashes.
If you ditch your car can I have the a/c system? Or is that shot too? The one in my 87 Leaks and has to be recharged per 90 days or so.
Can you say that you have been driving for a while with the “Check Engine” light on? Does the car show any progressive deterioration as to how it runs? If yes and no, then just drive it. You do have towing insurance. don’t you? You may not need it.
If this is a learning experience that you want, that’s fine. Otherwise just drive!
I am ditching an '88 with half that mileage. It needs an auto trans, a heater core and has oil leaks all over the place. Want it?
400 bucks is bit much to sink into an EGR on a 19 year old Honda. You could always do the proven and time tested method of EGR repair - stick a BB into the hose at the EGR valve. 
I going to disagree that you’re being gigged by the mechanic. The price could be about right depending on where he procured the part, the amount of markup, and possiby high per hour labor rates; especially if you are in or near a large metro area such as Chicago.
Maybe the mechanic will use one like this instead of the 150 dollar one. Tack on 25% or whatever combined with 80 bucks an hour shop rate or whatever it is there, tax, enviro fees, shop supplies, and it can hit 400 easy with no thievery involved.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=FE3735&PartType=282&PTSet=A
I checked the prices online for EGR valves and I’m familiar with the labor costs involved, and yeah, it’s reasonable for this area for that to cost $350-400 dollars. I’d already saved the money for some exhaust pipes that need to be replaced in future, so I’ll just shift the funds…
Anyway, don’t worry, it’s the last major repair I’m making. Anything else goes wrong, I’ll run the car as long as possible and then it’s off to the junkyard for the car. And as for me, it’s public transit/car sharing/walking/biking, something I’ve thought about doing for the last year or two.
Sorry, I should have clarified: The hard-starting problem happened only once, a few days ago, and hasn’t recurred. So I don’t even know if it’s related.