I tried it when the car is hot and its on Closed Loop.
No improvement on fuel trims - I am uncertain as to how much I pinched, so I repeated it - still no improvement on FT.
I might have to build a smoke machine or find another mechanic.
Am I correct that I should be doing these tests on Closed Loop? I also have a flowchart from the car manual - so wondering CL or not?
Looks like I am getting ready for a ASE certification!
I had to tell this expert m/c to focus on injectors which he ruled out earlier based on his ohm test.
Where can I buy Cigars for my Smoke machine?
Donāt go overboard on that or (as me) you can get labeled a troublemaker and banned from the shop
Still, I felt no guilt to point to blatant lie where the shop started to throw parts on the problem and when I asked if they made a smoke machine test, they said āyes, and everything was sound!ā and yet I caught them on exhaust system having a hole big enough to fit a quarter
True, I told him a story as if someone was guiding me. It worked. I still have respect for him - he is very good and go slow and steady on the car. Next visit, he demoed me that the misfire followed with injector justifying the need for the new injectors.
P0171 issue
ā I had a used, but newer, MAP sensor ā so I swapped it ā seems a little better.
ā The photo below is soon after changing the MAP ā car was resting for just 1 hr. You can see the STFT slowly ramping (green) on closed loop. The red is the front O2 sensor. Gear is on Park.
ā This issue started soon after vacuum leak on IACV was fixed with a new gasket. Wondering if I should loosen the IACV bolts and see if the issue goes away?
ā I took it for a short ride and then put it on Park. When the car is idling (Closed loop) on Drive gear, MAP is giving higher reading of 5.36psi. If I shifted to Park, MAP gives lower value, 4.2psi and STFT increases, hence LTFT increases. I was moving Park to Drive (and back and forth - each time MAP value is affected). You can see it in the photo below.
Not ALL direct injection systems. Toyota has D4S system that is both Direct Injection and Port Injection that helps prevent carbon buildup on the valves.
Although my car passed SMOG now, the Fuel trim maxing out on idle is still there but lesser than before. I will be taking it to a shop shortly when I get time. There might be a leak on the EVAP - EVAP monitor is still not ready! Thanks everyone for the help.
put two changes of Royal Purple in the engine back to back and that should make things a lot cleaner. Royal purple has a lot of information on the net about cleaning the inside of the engine. Sorry, but itās there. I love oil!!!
if you added āsubstantialā to this statement, I would be 100% with you, so let me cover 1% where I do not agree
it is a test, which a number of oil manufacturers tend to hide on their published specs:
knowing this number, one can compare the expected difference in oil evaporation under high-temp conditions, so if one had two oils A and B on hands with all specs in complete match, but with Noack of A was higher than B, it is reasonable to expect that oil A will āburnā faster in the engine
having multiple Subarus in the past, which all used some oil between changes, selecting oil with lower Noack on the spec, it made a difference of having 0.5 quart down or 1-2 quarts down (and need to add) on 5000 miles interval
I can totally imagine that the oil evaporating is not getting teleported to the alien world, but ends up partially in the combustion chamber and partially in internals, where it get picked up by crankshaft ventilation systemā¦ eventually setting on the valvesā¦ bingo!
so, to some extent oil specs have a difference on carbon buildupā¦ although itās relatively minor factor to compare to the worn piston rings and old stuck PCV valves