# Carb installation **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** plymouth\ **Created:** [October 8, 2008, 2:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506 "2008-10-08T14:47:39Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 9\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![dandel61](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/f19dbf/32.png) [@dandel61](https://community.cartalk.com/u/dandel61)\ **Post date:** [October 8, 2008, 2:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/1 "2008-10-08T14:47:39Z")
^3 Plymouth, 318 engine. Hasn’t been started for 3 years. I’m installing a new carburator. Do I need to use gasket seal? One or both sides? Befor cranking are there any preparations I need to do, considering it hasn’t been started for 3 years. Enjoy your radio show!!! Dan Delancey ---
**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\ **Post date:** [October 8, 2008, 7:06pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/2 "2008-10-08T19:06:24Z")
I’ve never used gasket seal on carburator gaskets, but I’ll defer to others with far more experience. Before cranking I’d squirt a bit of oil in the cylinders and rotate them by hand to lube the walls. I’d also be inclined to want to fill the oil pasages and lube the rest of the parts by turning the engine over without the ignition or fuel connected. And, of course, fresh fluids and gasoline. You might also want to flush and pressure check the cooling system. And be sure the outside is cleaned off. I didn’t catch the year, but if it’s carburated it’ll be old. That combined with the fact that many seals and gaskets may not have seen fluids and movement for awhile may mean you’ll see some leaks. You can see and find them easier on a clean engine. And please don’t forget to check the brake system out thoroughly before going on the road. If the car doesn’t start right away it’ll mean a bit more work, if it doesn’t stop it could cost your life. ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [October 8, 2008, 7:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/3 "2008-10-08T19:07:46Z")
Don’t use any sealers or gasket dressing on the base gasket, just install it dry. There is no way I would use the starter motor to crank over an engine that sat dry for 3 years. Take out all the plugs, inject a tablespoon or so of motor oil into each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand (socket/breaker bar on the crank bolt) a few revolutions to make sure that the rings are not rusted to the cylinder walls. Replace the plugs. If you can prime the oil system before starting, all the better. ---
**Author:** ![oblivion](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/3ab097/32.png) [@oblivion](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oblivion)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2008, 5:29am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/4 "2008-10-11T05:29:34Z")
Change the oil. Remove spark plugs and put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs but pull the coil wire. Crank the engine until the oil light goes out. Reconnect the coil wire and try to really start it. If there’s been gasoline in the car the whole time, it should be drained and replaced, or if it was fairly low, fill the tank to dilute the ‘bad’ gas. The fuel filter will probably need to be replaced within 500 miles of driving it. ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2008, 6:55am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/5 "2008-10-11T06:55:26Z")
Install the gaskets dry. I don’t think trying to get oil in the spark-plug holes is worth the effort. Spray a little WD-40 in the intake (carb) the first couple of turns. Clean oil and fresh gasoline and away you go… ---
**Author:** ![thecarguy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/ea5d25/32.png) [@thecarguy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/thecarguy)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2008, 9:16am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/6 "2008-10-11T09:16:14Z")
dont use any sealer on the carb gasket.put fresh gas in the tank with some water remover (heat).change the fuel filter.change the oil and oil filter.take out the plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder and put new plugs in.check the coolant level, before and after engine has warmed up.check for leaks.also might check the belts and hoses…good luck! 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2008, 2:01pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/7 "2008-10-11T14:01:30Z")
Many years ago I felt the same way. I had what is now a vintage Corvette that sat for a few years waiting to finish body work. I ended up buying a house and wanted to move the car to my new house. I got lazy and skipped hand turning the engine and just cranked 'er over with the starter motor. It ran, but roughly, for the 20 mile ride. It sat for about a 6 months after that before I got to it. When I tore the motor down, I found most of the top rings were fractured and there were rust ridges in the bores where the rings had sat for those three years. I live in an area where unprotected steel rusts. The rings and bore are steel. Since then, I never skip that step on a motor I have any interest in preserving. It only takes a few minutes to do and the risk is too great IMO. ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2008, 7:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/8 "2008-10-11T19:13:50Z")
If the rings are rusted to the bore, squirting oil in the cylinders isn’t going to do anything except make a LOT of smoke when you get it started. The damage has been done. If you can turn the engine by hand, it’s fine, crank it up. The WD-40 spray will provide a little start-up top lube. Three years is not that big a deal… ---
**Author:** ![TwinTurbo](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/8baadc/32.png) [@TwinTurbo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/TwinTurbo)\ **Post date:** [October 13, 2008, 1:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/carb-installation/20506/9 "2008-10-13T13:32:49Z")
> If you can turn the engine by hand, it’s fine, crank it up. THAT’S THE POINT!!! Read your prior post. It doesn’t say anything about turning it by hand and in fact implies just the opposite.