Seemed ok but I will take a closer look.
May even try yet another ballast resistor. I can’t have that many bad ones in a row!..
I think it is time for an electrical diagram. What changes on that diagram when the ignition switch moves from the “start” position to the “run” position? One is the switch, another is the wires running from the switch, etc etc. That is why the bulkhead connector was suggested (plus others).
You are lucky you don’t have an intermittent problem, but just need to do some circuit tracing.
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My book does not show a 383 available for the Challenger in 1973; only the 318 and 340. It likely makes no difference but just wondering what year model the engine actually is and just to verify whether or not it has a contact point or electronic distributor whose year and origin may also be in question.
As for a wiring schematic here yo go and this problem should not be difficult to sort out.
Appreciate the schematic and all the suggestions everyone has provided. I do think spending some time doing circuit tracing will lead me to the solution. Will let you know.
Yes, the 383 wasn’t available for the 73. This was originally a 340 car that had a 383 magnum swapped in. Don’t have full details but believe it’s a 1970 383 vs. a detuned 1971. It also has an electronic distributor but not other detail.
Your ballast resistor is just fine. The problem is that the proper voltage going to the resistor isn’t getting to it. That power comes from the switch contacts of the ignition switch when the switch is in the RUN position. The START position of the switch bypasses the resistor circuit to allow full power to run the ignition system in order to make getting the engine started up easier. When the engine is started the ignition system doesn’t need full power (current) to it to keep the engine running so the resistor is used to lower the current going to the coil. You just need to use a light probe tester to see where voltage is getting dropped when the switch is in the RUN position. There may be a bad connection after the switch. First make sure that power is getting passed the Run position contacts of the ignition switch. If that is good then follow that wire to the resistor connection. Somewhere between those two points is a bad connection.
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That does make sense because I’m not getting a voltage reading at the ballast resistor in run position. Will do the tracing and see what I come up with.
Guess what provides voltage to the ballast resistor once the engine starts?
Ignition module!
Tester
I use to keep several in the glove box on the Volare’. My dad had a couple in his Aspen’s also.
As far as the ignition module goes, and if I am looking at the schematic diagram correctly, it looks to me like the power to the ignition module has to pass through the ballast resistor first before it gets to the module. If that is so then the fault is before the resistor and the module since power isn’t getting to the resistor. Am I understanding that correctly?
The dark blue wire from the ignition switch supplies power to the ballast resistor, the dark blue wire is typically the ignition feed wire on Mopars. It shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes to trace the wire and connectors back to the ignition switch to identify the problem.
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Knowing what wire color to trace is some real good info to have in help solving this problem. Way to go @Nevada_545.
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Yes that will definitely help. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to get to the car this week but will get there this weekend and report back!