Those displays are confusing b/c they are titled O2 fault codes, but none of them seem like they have anything to do with the O2 sensor. I think as first priority you have to figure out the nature of the turbo pressure drop fault code. The turbo wouldn’t be in use during slow speed driving presumably, like your complaint is about. But it could indicate a problem with the exhaust system. And exhaust system problems are a common cause of poor engine performance in modern cars, which require an air-tight engine from the air intake all the way to the end of the exhaust pipe to work as designed.
Those are “zero2” codes…note the slash through the zero?
;-]
Ok, I see what you mean. Not O2 sensor codes at all. I’d focus on the turbo code and the brake booster, as it might have a vacuum leak.
The 02 (zero)2 -Read Fault Codes is the mode the code reader is in. Probably has others like O1-Set Up, O3- Erase Codes, O4- Live Data, and others.
So for any further information needed as far as vacuum leaks go I have done two tests.
One: I have sprayed the engine while it is “shuddering” and in gear with a carb cleaner, I hit every visable vacuum line and some that I found that were hidden.
Two: to further ensure I did not miss a line one of my dad’s friends recommend that I try the same type of processes with misting water, again I completed this test misting water while the E brake was on and in gear, thus reproduceing my issue. The idea with the water would be the complement of the carb cleaner; if I hit the leak then the engine would sputter and RPMs would drop.
My current idea is that perhaps this leak is within the brake booster itself? I have no issues with the power brakes as a functional system for driving, and have also done a test from the brake pedal to ensure the booster is holding pressure, it is.
But as far as I can tell now it has to be related to the booster. Here is a fith code that came up just a moment ago.
Please let me know how I can further test this issue!
Thanks for all your help,
Jon
Also for any further clarification, 02 is simply numerical in nature, it is the second option in the list.
And as far as recent work towards trying to fix the issue I did take out the MAF sensor and clean it out, no change.
It’s probably like the one on my Corolla, most are pretty much the same configuration. If so, there should be a sturdy thick vacuum hose that goes directly from the intake manifold to the booster. Remove it on the intake manifold side, and hook up a hand held vacuum pump to it. If you don’t have one of those, get one. You’ll need it for future car repairs almost certainly, and they are relatively inexpensive, in the $15- $50 range. Then all you have to do is pump up the vacuum and make sure it hold vacuum to 20 mm Hg, which will be marked on the scale attached to the hand-held vacuum pump. If it fails to hold vacuum, the cause could be the brake booster itself has sprung a leak, or that thick hose could have a leak in it. It’s a not uncommon thing we hear here, poor engine performance which turns out to be caused by a leak in the brake booster.
The way that booster works (IIRC), the engine vacuum maintains a negative pressure of 20 mmHg on one side of a rubber diaphragm. When you press on the brake pedal an air valve opens and ambient air pressure is admitted to the other side of the diaphragm, which then pushes on the diaphragm with a force of 20 mm Hg (==10 psi). If the diaphragm spring a leak, two things happens. First the power brake booster won’t get the air pressures it is looking for on both sides of the diaphragm, and second, air will leak into the intake manifold and cause the engine to run lean and misfire.
Roger that, I have a pump on order from Amazon now. Will post results when it arrives!
Thanks,
Jon
Update:
Was able to test that the booster is holding pressure with vauum tester, also disconnecting the brake vauum system compleley from the engine vacuum system has no effect when the brake lines are pulled from the engine and engine side lines are plugged I have no change, still shuddering.
Please help!
The prior scanner pictures you posted had a slew of problems reported:
- cyl#2 misfire, resistance too low
- multiple misfires, resistance too low
- pressure drop between turbo and pressure valve
- pressure sensor for brake boost short to plus, resistance too small
if your engine runs lean, some misfires might be expected, so we might postpone looking into two first reports
still, looks like you have a brake boost sensor misbehaving (last report) and you have pressure drop between turbo and pressure valve you ECU does not like
I would probably concentrate on getting that sensor tested to operate as intended first, then on why pressure drop is getting reported (maybe valve is stuck open due to misbehaving sensor?)
just 2 cents worth, I’m not Audi fan, never had one to own either
This diagnose seems logical, I did test the boost sensor by changing it out, no difference. Furthermore, wouldn’t me taking vacuum from the engine to brake system and plugging and still the issue persist remove the option of it being a booster issue?
You replaced the sensor, but problem might still be in wires.
I had a friend of mine to find wires chewed by a squirrel, giving a number of “missing read from the sensor X” codes 
Might be worth checking on ECU/ECM side that sensor open/close signal reaches that side.
What about “pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve”?
It must be some kind of sensor there too or other method ECU/ECM determines that code.
It might be worthy researching it too.
Ever come up with a working solution for this issue ? I’m experiencing the exact same thing on a dodge 1500 ram van. But no codes showing. Thanks
Sounds to me like you may have a brake caliper sticking?