One DIY option would be sheet closed cell foam HVAC insulation. Back in the carb/vapor lock days I used the tubing closed cell insulation on fuel lines.
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Maybe in some areas the temperature is such, but when I open the hood after driving the car for a while, the battery is not that hot at all, more like lukewarm.
Now, when you leave that car to sit after the drive, hood becomes quite hot and I bet the heat is getting transferred to the battery too.
IMHO this is what blanket is compensating for.
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thank you for all the replies.
Indeed I also read that it’s better for a battery to not change temperature too sudden, so any insulation will make it more gradually and hence extending its life.
Tested with a IR Thermometer after 40 minutes drive (25 km), temperature of battery was 40-50 C, whereas surroundings slightly higher up to 55 C. Battery felt warm, maybe slightly warmer than luke warm, not hot at all.
Don’t think my battery is too close to the engine heat:
→ that’s still the old battery (had to remove the airduct to get to the battery’s left side)
In regards to car batteries not lasting long in Thailand: I cannot confirm this (in my Toyota Fortuner over 5 years only 1x replaced to my knowledge, though maybe 3x jumpstarting happened), but you read a lot on forums, people saying the quality is no good (they’re all produced locally), but more likely it’s because the climate (or people forgetting to fill flooded cells…)?
they mostly sell Maintenance Free batteries here, I bought this one: GS MFX-90L = 80Ah (85D26L), can’t find much info on it, but it’s supposedly a semi-dry type (not sure what that means, but seems still is lead acid): https://www.gsbattery.co.th/en/productDetail/19/1/MF
Read this on another forum:
these MF batteries are lead-calcium instead of lead antimony. The lead calcium batteries do not evaporate the electrolyte fast - hence require no top up for about 2 years BUT they require a charging voltage of 14.8 Volts minimum which your average japanese car will not have.
The regular exide (lead antimony) battery you buy will fully charge at 13.8 to 14 volts (your car alternator is regulated at this voltage) - to get a VERY VERY good life out of it - prepare the electrolyte with distilled water
=> will check what my alternator renders… when I checked the voltage on the cigarette plug (or how you call that), it’s showing 12.6V up to 13V during driving, mostly around 12.8V (with a dual camera dashcam and an air purifier running)
the old battery Yuasa MF2800L, I could hear water splashing in it, so these semi-dry MF batteries are just sealed lead acid batteries? Going to try my Pulse repair charger on it and keep it as memory saver (ordered one with clamps, so can hook it up to the old battery)
BTW it was such a hassle getting the new battery in place, I ended up disconnecting the jumper cables to the old battery, so I lost all car setting after all, haha, well it will be easier once I have the memory saver so I can hook up the old battery through the OBDII port.
cheers
The reason batteries don’t last in Thailand is because of the climate.
The average temperature is 86 degrees F.
Rain or shine.
So you have battery under the hood of a vehicle that’s a compact car, probably being driven in gridlock, then when it’s finally parked, the sun is beating down on the hot hood from the engine heat?
Heat is the enemy of a car battery.
You’re lucky they last a year!
Tester
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