Just pull the lower radiator hose. It’s a big messy gush at first, but the petcocks aren’t worth the trouble.
What I would also suggest is that you go pick up a basic repair manual. If you really want to get into working on this car, get an actual factory service manual. However, do note that these are written toward people who already know things about cars and have lots of tools that you probably don’t. If you just want an easy, basic manual for the basic DIY stuff a Haynes manual will suffice and is available at most any auto parts store. Chapter 1 normally contains guides for all of the basic maintenance stuff. The Haynes manuals are NOT very good if you see yourself ever wanting to really get into doing your own repairs. But for basic driveway stuff it’ll do.
I think Ford has about 15 or 20 different engine coolant specifications.
This makes one wonder if the correct spec by the book is being used by the Ford dealer when they recommend a cooling system flush or they’re using a one size fits all method…
The universal coolants came about because the military demanded them.
The military purchases all kinds of vehicles and equipment from all kinds of different manufacturers. And each manufacturer specifies a different coolant for that vehicle/equipment.
So instead of the military having to stock all these different coolants specific to each vehicle/equipment, they required a universal coolant that worked in any of these vehicles/equipment.
I could see it now. You’re in the middle of battle and your vehicle gets a coolant leak. You fix the leak, but you have to use Dexcool to refill the cooling system. Ain’t going to happen!
If it’s good enough for the military, it’s good enough for me.
@Tester, I’m pretty sure their budget is bigger than ours is though (Keeping in mind that I am a regular universal coolant guy, so no disagreement in principle).
@cigroller … I agree the Haynes and the other vendors who produce car repair manuals do a pretty good job. But – and I admit this is a pet peeve of mine – in condensing the material for several model years into one they can be problematic at times and increase the frustration and time to do the job.
When I replaced the fuel filter on my Corolla the other day for example. You are supposed to depressurize the fuel system first. Remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine until it stalls etc. The Haynes manual said to reach up under the dashboard to remove the relay. I looked and looked, nothing looking like a fuel pump relay anywhere under the dash. Frustrated, I cracked open the FSM and even it was a little unclear. It says to depressurize and to remove the fuel pump relay you have to remove the center console (where the gearshift lever and e-brake lever go) to access the FP relay. Even the FSM didn’t explain that you don’t actually remove the relay. The relay isn’t plugged into a relay plate. So you don’t touch the relay. Instead you disconnect the wiring harness connector attached to the relay… Just to add to the confusing aspect of all this is that neither of the manuals call that relay the “FP relay”. The call it the “circuit opening relay”.
Ok, you got me started … lol … last year I had to remove the throttle body. The Haynes manual said before doing this to depressurize the fuel system. But there is no reason to do this, the throttle body has nothing to do w/the fuel system on that model/year of Corolla. I confirmed w/the FSM that there is no fuel system involvement w/removing the throttle body. But a DIY’er could well do it anyway if all they had was the Haynes manual and add a couple hours to the task for no reason.
