# Buying a car to work on **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [September 27, 2009, 11:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256 "2009-09-27T23:41:11Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 14\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![Whitey](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/whitey/32/24680_2.png) [@Whitey](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Whitey)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 2:41am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/21 "2009-09-29T02:41:10Z")
Oldschool, the book I mentioned above covers these kinds of unique problems. ---
**Author:** ![shadetree40](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/df705f/32.png) [@shadetree40](https://community.cartalk.com/u/shadetree40)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 3:04am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/22 "2009-09-29T03:04:35Z")
BMW 528 E…There are a lot of them around and parts are readily available at junk yards and are reasonably priced for new ones. I have been working on them for 12 years. ---
**Author:** ![MG-McAnick](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mg-mcanick/32/188_2.png) [@MG-McAnick](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MG-McAnick)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 3:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/23 "2009-09-29T03:05:47Z")
You want something to work on? The solution is obvious. You need an MG. ---
**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 3:40am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/24 "2009-09-29T03:40:37Z")
You ever see one pull starter amperage through the speedo cable? it happens. How about the clutch cable tube (up near the shifter) breaking away from the body,you have to cut the tunnel with a air chisel and weld it back with the flames all over the steel fuel line. How about simple stuff like generator replacement or muffler replacement,takes some people hours. I have seen the short fuel pump rod also. ---
**Author:** ![georgeseamans](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/9e8a1a/32.png) [@georgeseamans](https://community.cartalk.com/u/georgeseamans)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 8:46am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/25 "2009-09-29T08:46:14Z")
someone suggested the 528e which I think would also be a lot of fun, but for a first project it seems like there are a ton of parts and rescources for bugs. a friend built his own fuel injection system with labview which would be a fun project down the road (pun) ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 1:17pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/26 "2009-09-29T13:17:26Z")
We Had A Guy Who Wrestled A “Starter” Out Of His Bug (It Would Only Click) And It Took Him Hours. He put it down on the counter to exchange it for a rebuilt. Problem was, he took out the generator! He picked it up and was gone for several more hours. CSA ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 2:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/27 "2009-09-29T14:34:50Z")
Don’t VW speedometers drive through the left front wheel? I can’t imagine the starter grounding circuit getting that far out of line. ---
**Author:** ![rocketman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/eada6e/32.png) [@rocketman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rocketman)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 2:40pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/28 "2009-09-29T14:40:51Z")
You got that right MG . . . any Brit like an MG or Triumph will force you to learn to fix just about anything. I learned a lot about everything from working on MGs and their lot in the 1970s. Engine work . . . bodywork . . . rear-ends . . . electrical (HA!) . . . brakes . . . OP should get a 1960s to 1970s British sports car. Rocketman ---
**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 4:59pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/29 "2009-09-29T16:59:45Z")
When the normal ground path is removed electricity gets pretty smart in finding whatever is available. All they had was that one ground at the transmission mount. These cars were really primitive in many ways,trouble was there wasn’t much else going on at the time. Could I really suggest a Pinto or Vega,or a Maverick,Valiant,Dart,AMC product perhaps but not the Vega. It was a time you just had to pick your poison and deal with the unique problems that each brought but the “bug” was in a class by itself in terms or “unique” problems. I have no problem at all believing someone pulled the generator thinking it was the starter,only on a bug though. ---
**Author:** ![Red-Tail](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d9b06d/32.png) [@Red-Tail](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Red-Tail)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 10:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/30 "2009-09-29T22:50:24Z")
I have an old '76 f-250, I picked it up for $475. There was nothing that a tune up and timing didn’t fix. The body was darn near rust and dent free, and parts are CHEAP and EVERYWHERE. (20 bucks for a water pump at shucks, 50 for an alternater). They are so simple to work on, it is amazing. If you want a truck that is. ---
**Author:** ![bscar](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bscar/32/34_2.png) [@bscar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bscar)\ **Post date:** [September 29, 2009, 11:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/31 "2009-09-29T23:10:55Z")
He wants something fun, not to be tortured 😛 unless the OP is into that kinda stuff, then we’re not here to judge. ---
**Author:** ![Ranck](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/aca169/32.png) [@Ranck](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ranck)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 1:59pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/32 "2009-09-30T13:59:40Z")
The old VW idea is OK, though I’d try to find a Karmann-Ghia. I also agree with folks suggesting an pickup truck. Find a 2 wheel drive manual transmission model of just about any domestic pickup and it will be easy to work on with decent parts availability. Even the small Japanese pickups seem to have fairly decent parts availability, though not quite as easy as domestics. I have a '91 Isuzu pickup and have no problem finding parts like turn signal assemblies, bumpers, etc. Of course, mine almost never needs any work, it just runs and runs and the AC even works. There is plenty of room in the engine bay on a pickup and older ones will have carburetors, though I think fuel injection is better for reliability and drivability, carbs are easier to tinker with (and screw up 😉 ). ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 10:57pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/33 "2009-09-30T22:57:13Z")
The carburated 4 cylinder Rangers were very basic and nearly bullet proof. No interference timing, very basic mechanicals in the drive train and suspension. Parts are plentiful and inexpensive. Toyota pickups of the early 80s are more difficult but not beyond most determined DIYers. The 80s 4 cylinder Mustang is identical to the Ranger except for the steering and suspension. Just my .02 worth.Have fun. ---
**Author:** ![kmccune](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/kmccune/32/1237_2.png) [@kmccune](https://community.cartalk.com/u/kmccune)\ **Post date:** [September 30, 2009, 11:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256/34 "2009-09-30T23:05:15Z")
Get a 67-72 Chevy or GMC pickup anybody can work on these things and there are catalogues devoted to these trucks-these trucks make good street rods-Kevin [Previous page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/buying-a-car-to-work-on/37256.md?page=1)