I know on 2013 versa there is some type of issue with the rear taillight assembly getting corroded from moisture. It also is the cause of the P0705 code it throws.
Back around 2002ish I remember having some Hyundai’s (I think it was) that if the dome light went out the transmission would stop sifting (limp mode) and people would have their cars towed in to have the trans rebuilt or replaced and we would call them up after the diag and tell them all it was, was the dome light blew… That was fun figuring out the 1st time it happened… lol… But that started being the 1st thing we would look for, make sure all the lights worked…
Remember someone on here posting about the $5,000 tail lamps on the newer Ford Platinum’s… These ain’t your Fathers vehicles anymore…
I’ve seen weird effects occur in complicated circuitry when the current changes in a certain path in an unexpected way, e.g. if a light bulb fails. Whenever current flows in a wire or pcb trace it causes a slight voltage difference, which varies along the path. The circuit design engineers may tweak the circuit (use different resistor value for example) so that this doesn’t cause any problems w/other circuits as long as the current is flowing. But when it stops the voltages along that current path change, which could confuse other circuits. Ground paths are a common reason for this sort of problem, and beefing up the grounding system can sometimes provide a practical solution…
Or maybe that’s just why Hyundai calls it the “doom” light … lol …
Try switching bulbs. If bulb now on the driver side burns out, suspect driver side socket.
Does the left bulb flicker from vibration? Flickering could cause the filament to fracture sooner. Socket loose? Poor ground?
Could the bulb be staying on continuously while vehicle is on?
Usually when I don’t have time or don’t bother to read the preceding comments I say that I have not read them. Same thing if I ever flag someone, I say why. This place has been pretty dead lately though so a little spice might be nice.