# Blazer Battery goes dead

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** chevrolet, blazer\
**Created:** [January 30, 2013, 2:29am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034 "2013-01-30T02:29:17Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![grego2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/838e76/32.png) [@grego2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/grego2)\
**Post date:** [January 30, 2013, 2:29am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/1 "2013-01-30T02:29:17Z")

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My 2001 Blazer will not start. New battery when running over 14 volts charging. But seems top drain the battery. if i disconnect the battery after use it is fine. I had a 94 Bravada did the same thing, the guy I purchased it from put a cut out switch right at the battery. But what a pain to open the hood after each use and flip the cutout. I see this is a common problem from all the posts but did not find a common solution… help!

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**Author:** ![Stoveguyy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/9e8a1a/32.png) [@Stoveguyy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Stoveguyy)\
**Post date:** [January 30, 2013, 2:55am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/2 "2013-01-30T02:55:53Z")

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U need to find which circuit is drawing power when vehicle is shut off. Put an ammeter on battery and start pulling fuses.isolate which circuit/fuse causes amp draw to stop

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**Author:** ![Barkydog](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/barkydog/32/2470_2.png) [@Barkydog](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Barkydog)\
**Post date:** [January 30, 2013, 4:32am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/3 "2013-01-30T04:32:10Z")

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Here is a start

> **[How to Stop Car Battery Drains](https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/)**
>
> There are plenty of energy-robbing devices on your car that are supposed to go to sleep when it's parked, and sometimes, not all of them go to sleep. Here's how to give them a tranquilizer.

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**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [January 30, 2013, 7:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/4 "2013-01-30T07:39:44Z")

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If you’ve added any non-OEM electronics to the car, like audio or alarms, disconnecting them and seeing if it solves the problem is probably what I’d do first.

Someone here mentioned an idea a while ago, a sort of short-cut method, to find which circuit these current draws are in, that didn’t require the fuses to be pulled. Any circuit drawing power will cause the fuse to heat up a little. They said they used a laser-guided non-contact temperature probe and pointed it at the fuses one by one. I haven’t done it, but it seems like it would work. This gadget, it sounds like it would cost $500, but actually here’s one that is quite inexpensive, less than $40.

> **[Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer With Laser Targeting](https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-69465.html)**
>
> Sometimes it’s called a laser thermometer, because you use the built-in laser to target the surface, but it’s really a non-contact infrared thermometer that measures the electromagnetic radiation coming from that surface. It’s the safest way to...

Before using this method, you’d first want to measure the current at the battery to confirm you actually have a signficant phantom overall current draw. Anything over 100 mA when everything is off and sleeping would be suspicious. My Corolla, when I measured it, it had less than 10 mA with everything off.

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**Author:** ![grego2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/838e76/32.png) [@grego2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/grego2)\
**Post date:** [January 31, 2013, 2:37am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/5 "2013-01-31T02:37:11Z")

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I have heard many have had this problem so I wonder if it is coherent to this type vehicle?

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**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\
**Post date:** [January 31, 2013, 5:11am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/6 "2013-01-31T05:11:12Z")

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@grego2 there is no one answer for every vehicle.

Here are some examples of the sources of parasitic draw that I’ve encountered over the years.

body control module  
radio  
instrument cluster  
ac pushbutton switch assembly  
etc.

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**Author:** ![grego2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/838e76/32.png) [@grego2](https://community.cartalk.com/u/grego2)\
**Post date:** [April 4, 2013, 9:53pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/blazer-battery-goes-dead/77034/7 "2013-04-04T21:53:32Z")

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I purchased a a laser-guided non-contact temperature probe and will check it first chance i get.
