# Battery testing and specs

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** explorer, ford\
**Created:** [January 28, 2017, 4:04pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154 "2017-01-28T16:04:03Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![rs8843829](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b782af/32.png) [@rs8843829](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rs8843829)\
**Post date:** [January 28, 2017, 4:04pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/1 "2017-01-28T16:04:03Z")

</div>

New member here with a battery issue.

I bought a battery for my Ford Explorer about 6 years ago and think it’s dying on me. When I turn the key all I get is repeated clicking, dash lights flashing and doors locking/unlocking. I inspected and cleaned & tightened the battery and connections and the starter connections. The starter is almost brand new. I haven’t tested it yet but I’ve got a small electronics multimeter that will give me a voltage reading but will only read amperage up to ~1500 mA.

1. What do I do to test the battery here in my driveway?
2. What are the voltage and current levels I should expect if the battery is still good?
3. What kind of voltage/current meter would you Gus recommend for this?

Hope to hear from anyone with suggestions or advice out there. Stuck with a dead car right now so the sooner the better. Thanks.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\
**Post date:** [January 28, 2017, 4:06pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/2 "2017-01-28T16:06:38Z")

</div>

> [@rs8843829](#):
>
> I bought a battery for my Ford Explorer about 6 years ago and think it’s dying on me

You are close to the end of life for a battery anyway if not already. Just get a new battery. If you must test AutoZone will do that.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![BillRussell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/billrussell/32/3179_2.png) [@BillRussell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BillRussell)\
**Post date:** [January 28, 2017, 4:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/3 "2017-01-28T16:12:08Z")

</div>

[quote=“rs8843829, post:1, topic:99154”]  
What do I do to test the battery here in my driveway?  
What are the voltage and current levels I should expect if the battery is still good?  
What kind of voltage/current meter would you Gus recommend for this? [/quote]

Any DVM would work. You can get one that plugs into the lighter socket for about $12 at Amazon.  
with the engine off, battery should read 12.3-12.6.  
With the engine being started, should read above 10 volts.  
Engine running, alternator working, should read 14-15 .5 volts.

You can’t read any of the currents, they are too high for your meter.

But, as suggested, just get a new battery first.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![rs8843829](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b782af/32.png) [@rs8843829](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rs8843829)\
**Post date:** [January 28, 2017, 4:31pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/4 "2017-01-28T16:31:55Z")

</div>

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, Volvo. Thanks.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2017, 12:04am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/5 "2017-01-29T00:04:02Z")

</div>

[http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm](http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm)

Tester

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![oldtimer-11](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e79b87/32.png) [@oldtimer-11](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldtimer-11)\
**Post date:** [January 29, 2017, 2:20am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/6 "2017-01-29T02:20:32Z")

</div>

He certainly can test voltage with that small test meter, he just can’t test amperage. If you get a reading of 10 to 10.5 volts with the car not running, you have a dead cell in the battery and it is shot.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![rs8843829](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/b782af/32.png) [@rs8843829](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rs8843829)\
**Post date:** [January 30, 2017, 8:56pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/battery-testing-and-specs/99154/7 "2017-01-30T20:56:24Z")

</div>

Thanks, Bill. Those voltage numbers are just what I wanted.  
Put in a new battery and all is well. --right now, anyway.
