I concur w/poster “eddo” above, with a known problem that prevents engaging P, it would be unwise spending time and $$ on the no-crank problem until you have first fixed the unable to get into P problem. If that doesn’t solve the no-crank, for stubborn no-cranks I start with a simple voltage test. Both of the connections at the starter motor should measure at least 10.5 volts with the key in “start”. Probe between the lug on the starter motor and the starter motor case. What does your shop measure?
Not sure what getting the shifter problem entails in terms of cost. I don’t have a “shop”, just took t to Auto-zone and had the battery, alternator and starter checked. They all passed. Confusing to me. It has been exactly one week since I’ve had the vehicle(Ford 2000 Explorer) jumped. It has started every time since. Truth be told when I went grocery shopping today, I just let the auto run as I didn’t want any issues trying to gt home.