How did you determine that?
Autozone tested it with their machine.
How?
You removed the alternator and autozone bench tested it?
Or you brought the whole vehicle, and they tested it, as installed?
I brought the whole car to autozone and they tested the alternator after putting in the new battery. I was told the battery light should go off after 50 miles or so, but it didnāt make it that far.
The battery light indicates that there is a charging system problem. This will need to be repaired, donāt try to drive very far, the battery will discharge again.
With what?
And battery cables can go bad on the inside/under the insulation
The guys working at autozone are not mechanics, no matter how much theyāre promoting themselves
As such, I would expect bad advice, as they clearly gave you
The sad thing is that they actually think theyāre pretty car savvy
An expression comes to mind . . . āYou donāt know what you donāt knowā
If the alternator is working okay then the problem is with the main output wire connection between it and the battery. Check the fuse for that wire connection to make sure it is okay.
Depending on how the alternator is tested, it could test ok, but still not charge the battery. Some basic voltage measurements at the battery posts is where Iād start. Before the first start of the day, around 12.6 volts. Immediately after starting the engine, at idle, around 13.5-15.5 volts. Anything outside that range means thereās a battery, alternator, or wiring problem.
Im a little late to the party, but I have a brand new alternator and a brand new battery. I just bought this car and while its running or Iām driving slowly each accessory turns off or flickers off. If I turn my headlights on or push my breaks I think kill it the fastest. Or Iām not really a mechanic is why Iām here lol it kind of jerks the car back like it sucks the whole life out of it for a second if I break or try to use the headlights while Iām drivingā¦ did anyone figure out what it was? Hopefully just a connection to the alternator?