# Ballast resistorless coil damage **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** damage\ **Created:** [July 2, 2008, 8:40pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159 "2008-07-02T20:40:46Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 11\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![revjud](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/43a26b/32.png) [@revjud](https://community.cartalk.com/u/revjud)\ **Post date:** [July 2, 2008, 8:40pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/1 "2008-07-02T20:40:46Z")
how much damage did I do to my 1960 TR3A when I have tried to use a coil w/o the required ballast resistor? The coil is too hot to touch after only a few seconds of trying to start the engine (which will not really start) and I have been trying this coil for three months. I had already converted to negative ground, alternator, and Mallory Dual Point ignition, which require the ballast resistor but my propensity For density over looked that small notation. I have had the TR for 34 years and this is really my first big goof. ---
**Author:** ![Opera\_House](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/9dc877/32.png) [@Opera\_House](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Opera_House)\ **Post date:** [July 2, 2008, 9:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/2 "2008-07-02T21:10:00Z")
All coils are 6V whether or not they have an internal ballast resistor. It is impossible to say whether the coil is damaged or not, but I suspect it isn’t. The wire can take well over what you can touch it at. Sparking would be a good sign, but a problem could show up at high speed if a couple turns are shorted. Just as a suggestion, I would recommend an old MSD-5 electronic ignition. I use these on my old flathead boat engines that I can run at a 300 rpm in gear idle for hours without fouling a plug. Above 1,000 rpm there is no advantage. That multiple spark sure gives a great idle with old engines. ---
**Author:** ![FoDaddy](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/fodaddy/32/717_2.png) [@FoDaddy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/FoDaddy)\ **Post date:** [July 2, 2008, 9:11pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/3 "2008-07-02T21:11:57Z")
Check the position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sunwise around your car chanting: “Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your unworthy servant.” ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [July 2, 2008, 10:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/4 "2008-07-02T22:02:11Z")
Usually a system with no resistor will burn the points up. Some coil heating is normal but I’d question the too hot too touch part of it. Why not add a resistor? These can be purchased dirt cheap at car parts houses and they’re dead simple to install. Install it in-line in the power lead to the coil AND make sure you tie from the small starter solenoid wire to the + side of the coil. This will provide 12 volts in the START position (as it should be) and 6 volts only in the RUN position. ---
**Author:** ![revjud](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/43a26b/32.png) [@revjud](https://community.cartalk.com/u/revjud)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 1:15am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/5 "2008-07-03T01:15:51Z")
Thanks for the reply and info. I will look into an MSD-5 as it would sure make things easier. Thanks again! ---
**Author:** ![revjud](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/43a26b/32.png) [@revjud](https://community.cartalk.com/u/revjud)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 1:18am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/6 "2008-07-03T01:18:11Z")
Wow! the points were fried! I will look for an other coil, perhaps with an internal resistor and one that is known to be compatible with the Mallory distributor. I was wondering if any other part of the ignition electris may have suffered damage? Thanks very much for your reply. Very useful. ---
**Author:** ![revjud](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/43a26b/32.png) [@revjud](https://community.cartalk.com/u/revjud)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 1:19am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/7 "2008-07-03T01:19:51Z")
I see you may have used Lucas “Lords of Darkness - the lights go out when the sun goes down” electrics before? Thanks fro the post, I needed a good chuckle. ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 5:59am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/8 "2008-07-03T05:59:57Z")
You should be able to use an old VW Beetle air-cooled engine ignition coil. Get one for a mid/late 60s/mid 70s model. The earlier VW Beetles were 6 volt systems. These coils have an internal resistor and if you go this route should be able to plug and play with no problems. ---
**Author:** ![revjud](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/43a26b/32.png) [@revjud](https://community.cartalk.com/u/revjud)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 2:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/9 "2008-07-03T14:03:20Z")
Thanks! ---
**Author:** ![FoDaddy](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/fodaddy/32/717_2.png) [@FoDaddy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/FoDaddy)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 6:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/10 "2008-07-03T18:05:44Z")
I have a 1974 TR6. So I feel your pain ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [July 3, 2008, 6:54pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/ballast-resistorless-coil-damage/16159/11 "2008-07-03T18:54:52Z")
The Mallory duel-point offers NO advantage in a 4 cylinder engine. The STOCK system will work just fine… A pointless electronic system offers zero maintenance and so would be an improvement.