# Bad transmission? **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** mustang, ford\ **Created:** [February 2, 2017, 7:19pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382 "2017-02-02T19:19:33Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 11\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![jazzy1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8797f3/32.png) [@jazzy1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jazzy1)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 7:19pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/1 "2017-02-02T19:19:33Z")
Hello all, I have a 1995 mustang with about 200,000 miles. When I shift into gear from park, it has been kicking back or forward harder than usual. Could this be a sign that my transmission is about to go out? Also sometimes hear a clunking after stopping, then begin accelerating. Does that mean there’s slack in my UV joint? I took it on the interstate and went up to 80mph and no shuddering or wobbling. Driving 300 miles and back and want to make sure I won’t be stranded somewhere. Thank you!! ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 7:43pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/2 "2017-02-02T19:43:45Z")
I’d have a mechanic put it up on a lift to check out the drive shaft u-joints, the transmission mounts, and the engine mounts. If they’re good then it might be the transmission. ---
**Author:** ![jazzy1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8797f3/32.png) [@jazzy1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jazzy1)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 8:37pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/3 "2017-02-02T20:37:52Z")
any idea how much that will cost me? I’m a poor college student lol ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 8:43pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/4 "2017-02-02T20:43:33Z")
$50-100 for the inspection, but make sure it’s a reputable shop, not a chain. But first, have you checked the atf level? ---
**Author:** ![jazzy1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8797f3/32.png) [@jazzy1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jazzy1)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 8:52pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/5 "2017-02-02T20:52:13Z")
No I haven’t checked it. Had it changed a year ago. Fairly sure it doesn’t leak. Need two people to check it right? One to shift through all the gears and one to check it? How do I know if a shop is reputable? ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 8:56pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/6 "2017-02-02T20:56:17Z")
The owners manual will say how to check it, google it it you don’t have one. As for a mechanic you can use Yelp or the “mechanics file” on this web site. ---
**Author:** ![jazzy1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8797f3/32.png) [@jazzy1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jazzy1)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 8:58pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/7 "2017-02-02T20:58:20Z")
Thanks a bunch for your help!!! ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [February 2, 2017, 9:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/8 "2017-02-02T21:03:49Z")
Pull the transmission dipstick out, and check the color and smell of the fluid. ![](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/a/ae8d95d195f3bc88f3aad95c4a7358a12600c85f.gif) If the fluid smells burnt, the tranny’s done. Tester ---
**Author:** ![oldtimer-11](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e79b87/32.png) [@oldtimer-11](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldtimer-11)\ **Post date:** [February 3, 2017, 5:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/9 "2017-02-03T05:34:44Z")
These are normal symptoms of worn out U-joints. If you grab the driveshaft in the middle and try to rotate the shaft back and forth, you should not hear any clunking or see any play in a good u-joint. As far as your transmission goes listen to tester, and if your fluid is not burnt, get it changed with the exactly right fluid. Do not go to a chain transmission or oil change shop. I personally avoid chain shops altogether. ---
**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\ **Post date:** [February 3, 2017, 6:33am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/10 "2017-02-03T06:33:00Z")
> [@jazzy1](#): > > When I shift into gear from park, it has been kicking back or forward harder than usual. Is the engine idle speed normal or abnormally high? A high idle speed will cause a harsh engagement. ---
**Author:** ![jazzy1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8797f3/32.png) [@jazzy1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jazzy1)\ **Post date:** [February 4, 2017, 9:58pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-transmission/99382/11 "2017-02-04T21:58:55Z")
Maybe that’s a factor, it only seems to do it when its cold. Guess I didn’t think of that. Thank you all for all of your wonderful help and advice 🙂