# Automatic door locks

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** doors, locks\
**Created:** [July 23, 2008, 4:13am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098 "2008-07-23T04:13:12Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 10\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![system](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/1/d/1d47c66a543aa6c5a7873bb2320858f978ff52ed.png) [@system](https://community.cartalk.com/u/system)\
**Post date:** [July 23, 2008, 4:13am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/1 "2008-07-23T04:13:12Z")

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Locked out driver’s side.

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**Author:** ![newpony](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/41988e/32.png) [@newpony](https://community.cartalk.com/u/newpony)\
**Post date:** [July 23, 2008, 5:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/2 "2008-07-23T05:05:53Z")

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Details please. Make, Model, Year, Mileage, Trim package, accessories? Kinda hard to diagnose from here.

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**Author:** ![Roadrunner](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d2c977/32.png) [@Roadrunner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Roadrunner)\
**Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 2:16am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/3 "2008-07-24T02:16:06Z")

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Yeah, no kidding.

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**Author:** ![Roadrunner](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d2c977/32.png) [@Roadrunner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Roadrunner)\
**Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 2:18am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/4 "2008-07-24T02:18:19Z")

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Regardless, here’s a guess: your problem is either a worn switch or power lock actuator.

Maybe even a disconnected/broken lock linkage.

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**Author:** ![system](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/1/d/1d47c66a543aa6c5a7873bb2320858f978ff52ed.png) [@system](https://community.cartalk.com/u/system)\
**Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 2:26am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/5 "2008-07-24T02:26:25Z")

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1994 Chevy lumina van.114,000 miles. Drivers door does not open w key, but I hear the mechanism when I turn the key to the front of the car and relock or unlock to the rear of the car, I think. The handle is vertical type. The passenger doors and hatch all open w key. It locks me in too. I have to raise the lock manually to get out after I turn engine off.I called a Chevy dealer who said it might be the actuator and he would charge me 75 to look ,will go toward the repair. Price at a parts store if I can get it is 57.00. Can i take door off and do this myself or need to bother? It is a very part time vacation van. Thanks, Lenore

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**Author:** ![Roadrunner](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/d2c977/32.png) [@Roadrunner](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Roadrunner)\
**Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 2:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/6 "2008-07-24T02:45:52Z")

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You have to remove the door panel to gain access. All you need to remove the panel is a slim forked tool to pry the clips loose. Remove the screws around the handle area and pry the arm rest switches out with a small screwdriver and disconnect from the wires.

Need to bother? That’s up to you, no-one else can answer that.

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**Author:** ![system](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/1/d/1d47c66a543aa6c5a7873bb2320858f978ff52ed.png) [@system](https://community.cartalk.com/u/system)\
**Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 4:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/7 "2008-07-24T16:47:52Z")

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I don’t really need auto locks. Can I remove the actuator and manually open and close locks? Would the key allow me to lock and unlock each door induvidually? Thanks, Lenore

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**Author:** ![NYBo](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nybo/32/17281_2.png) [@NYBo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/NYBo)\
**Post date:** [July 24, 2008, 7:45pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/8 "2008-07-24T19:45:26Z")

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If the key doesn’t unlock the door, it’s the linkage, not the power lock actuator.

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**Author:** ![system](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/1/d/1d47c66a543aa6c5a7873bb2320858f978ff52ed.png) [@system](https://community.cartalk.com/u/system)\
**Post date:** [July 26, 2008, 3:24am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/9 "2008-07-26T03:24:32Z")

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To NYBo: What do you mean by “linkage”? The impulse is interrupted? The wires became disconnected? If I look inside the door, would I see parts hanging? Is this an expensive repair if I take it somewhere and Tell them what the problem is? They would not like that I guess. I am trying not to spend too much money.If I haave a weak battery, could that be the cause of failing locks? Thank You, L

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**Author:** ![Cougar](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cougar/32/21348_2.png) [@Cougar](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cougar)\
**Post date:** [July 26, 2008, 2:58pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/automatic-door-locks/17098/10 "2008-07-26T14:58:32Z")

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The linkage that NYBo is talking about is what ties between the key lock cylinder and lock mechanism. The problem may be that the key lock isn’t able to turn the lock mechanism far enough to unlock the door. If you are fairly handy you may be able to fix this yourself. A shop should be able to fix this problem in less than 2 hours of service time I would guess. Since the other actuator is working ok then the battery would not seem to be the cause of this problem. Once the lock is freed up so the key works then perhaps the keyless entry will work also on that side.
