Ok…so I have finally gotten back around to working on the car. Just for the sake of having done it I have now also replaced the downstream O2 sensor but that didn’t do the trick. I have unconnected/reconnected just about every connector I can get to in the engine compartment, checked for loose grounds and worn wires and I am still blowing Fuse 34.
However, I did find out that the fuse is NOT blowing right at start up. Depending on engine temp (cold start/warm start) it may blow several (approx 2-5 min) minutes after a cold start and almost immediately after a warm start. Especially during a cold start I will hear what sounds a little like an air rush and slight engine rev immediately before my scan tool shows that the short to ground codes have been stored in “pending codes”. If after I see them show up in the “pending codes” I shut the engine down and start back up, the check engine light comes on almost immediately and the codes have then moved from pendings codes to actual codes in the scanner.
The car actually seems to be running OK (I run it everyday to work) and gas mileage has actually improved lately, but this is really bugging me that I can’t figure out what is up with this thing.
Earlier in this thread Hellokit had wrote “The engine ran fine until you restarted it, right? Was the engine cold, or had you just shut the engine off?
What happens, electrically, when you just turn the engine on, that’s an extra electrical load on that power supply (fuse #34)? The oxygen sensor heaters are turned on, is what. One of those oxygen sensor heater wires may be shorted to ground, or, to another wire.
There are other actuators (valves) which get turned on later as the engine heats up, or, some other condition is met, for a monitor to be run.
The EVAP canister purge control valve isn’t on constantly; nor, are 3 or 4 other valves. It’s possible, not likely, for a component to be shorted internally.” Which of these valves/actuators mentioned would come on or try to kick in only after the engine has warmed? Could I try disconnecting these components one at a time to see if I can narrow down which one may be causing this, if any?
Also, I was wondering if since this fuse is blown are any of these sensors, monitors, meters, valves, etc even working at all or is the engine running in some sort of limp or pre-programmed mode?
Thanks again ahead of time.