OK, here’s my take. The lines at the master cylinder don’t look that bad. The lines at the ABS unit are on the way out but if they are not leaking they are not causing your sinking pedal. It probably would be a good idea to replace them. Have the lines at the rear of the car been examined? I’m wondering if they have already been replaced since there is no mention of them.
I am leaning toward having the work done regarding the lines however rejecting the rear wheel Cylinder. That takes 840 to 500. Taking this option is a bit of a gamble as I sure hope this issue is not the rear calaper somehow letting air into the system.
The work that was done is not consistent with the symptoms. The symptoms suggest a bad master cylinder. The work that was done was a simple brake job… but with turned rotors instead of new rotors, which doesn’t save money and often results in warping afterward. The work they’ve recommended is replacement of visually bad parts, but NOT the one thing causing your problem. The rear bearing; well, if you have a caliper hanging up THAT will cause a hot wheel.
I don’t think they know what they’re doing. And I think they’re “taking you for a ride”. I strongly urge you to find another shop, preferably an independently owned and operated done rather than a chain shop. I strongly suspect that these “techs” (I use the word loosely) are being paid a commission on every dollar they bring in above a specific amount… and I truly believe they’re using you for a “cash cow”.
Sorry to have to be the one to tell you, but I mean only the best.
By the way, the hard lines around the ABS modulator do look unusually corroded, but I’d want to see them hands-on. While they MIGHT need replacement, they didn’t fix that, did they?
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I think you omitted something on your parts list. I hope they intend to replace the master cylinder and included the brake lines to insure there are no hydraulic failures in the near future.
Free brake rotors? A brake shop is going to charge $75 for each rotor, wholesale prices do not apply. There is less labor but not enough to equal new rotors.
I agree with the others. This sounds like a master cylinder problem to me. This also sounds like a “the mechanic doesn’t know what the hell he’s doing” problem, as he’s busy throwing every part but the one that will fix the problem at it.
Get a new mechanic first. Get a real one, not the dinks at the chain store. Local, independent, good reviews from real people.
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@paulinde99 thank you for posting this and also the other who help. I am having the same situation as Paulinde and now i know what to explain to my mechanic.
Amen. Plus don’t go to a chain with “muffler” in its name and expect expertise on brake work.
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Lots of good suggestions here. Let me go back to the rear bearing for a moment.
Is it loose?? A loose, worn out bearing (and these cars do suffer that from time to time) will wobble. If you have rear disk brakes, that wobble will knock the pistons back when driving causing a long pedal most every time you press it. That could be the problem.
That said, a rear wheel bearing is nothing to just let go. If it “lets go” all kinds of bad things can happen. Don’t neglect it.
That said, your mechanic is clueless. Find another one ASAP. Stay away from the budget chain stores. As you are finding, they actually COST you more money rather than SAVE it.
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Depends on the shop and the rotors. I’ve often seen no significant difference between new rotors and the cost of turning the old ones.
I never nowhere implied that anything was free, including rotors.
Could be me but that reservoir looks empty. Even new fluid usually can be seen through the opaque plastic reservoir. Maybe it’s masked by the camera image but looks bone dry in the pic…can you verify it is filled to the proper level?
I cannot thank everyone enough for the kindness regarding rendering opinions on the problem I described as best I could. The correct answer was the Master Cylinder. I had a seasoned Goodyear mechanic at a privately owned show take a look. This person was the one referred to by several co-workers. The car is running great. Shame on Monro Muffler for wanting to change everything but the master cylinder. They wanted to do all the lines and the rear wheel assembly. I will be complaining to corporate Munro regarding price gouging
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My no traction light illuminated during a hard stop on the way home, but other then that the car is a ok.