# A/C Schrader Valve **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [May 24, 2011, 10:01pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941 "2011-05-24T22:01:35Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 11\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![pontiac69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/ba9def/32.png) [@pontiac69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/pontiac69)\ **Post date:** [May 24, 2011, 10:01pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/1 "2011-05-24T22:01:35Z")
I have a 1997 Chevy 1500 Sillverado 2wd with a 305 in it with an automatic transmission. The a/c is blowing warm and it took a charge but when we removed the gauges the refrigerent started to spew from the schrader valve. We tried to free up the valve while contaminating the shop and atmosphere but the valve remained stuck open. Is this valve serviceable or do i have to buy the whole a/c line and block assembly? At least we know where the leak is! Thanks Chris ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [May 24, 2011, 11:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/2 "2011-05-24T23:03:37Z")
They usually can be replaced like any other Schrader valve. I believe they are the same as those used in tires… ---
**Author:** ![waterboy](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/waterboy/32/764_2.png) [@waterboy](https://community.cartalk.com/u/waterboy)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 12:16am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/3 "2011-05-25T00:16:31Z")
I wish we still had stars, I would 4 star caddyman’s reply!! ---
**Author:** ![asemaster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/5f9b8f/32.png) [@asemaster](https://community.cartalk.com/u/asemaster)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 3:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/4 "2011-05-25T03:12:23Z")
If it’s the one I’m thinking of it’s not a schrader valve but a service port. Has kind of rounded corners on the outside of the port? Anyway, that little port assembly is easily replaced–you just need to find the guy who knows the part. If it is just a schrader valve, don’t just grab one from a tire valve stem. They’re not designed for 250 psi or more… ---
**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 3:19am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/5 "2011-05-25T03:19:44Z")
The low-side charging port never sees 250 psi… ---
**Author:** ![oblivion](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/3ab097/32.png) [@oblivion](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oblivion)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 3:43am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/6 "2011-05-25T03:43:25Z")
The R-134A ports are significantly bigger than the old R-12 Schrader valves. They may still be referred to as Schrader valves (I don’t know if they are or not), because they work the same, but I doubt a screw-in valve from a tire or an older A/C unit would work. I think you can still replace them the same, but you will need to get the right part. If you can find a tool to tighten your existing valve, it may just be loose or have a piece of debris jamming it. They are extremely simple and it’s hard to imagine how one would fail, especially on an A/C system, where they don’t get a ton of use. ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 4:10am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/7 "2011-05-25T04:10:47Z")
The valves are significantly different but theorizing here for a minute, I’m inclined to think the valve is not the problem and any leak is somewhere other than the valve. Sometimes the 134 valves can bind or get canted sideways a bit. When the service hose is removed refrigerant will blast out of the binding or canted valve. Often a tap with a screwdriver, center punch, etc will straighten it out and the refrigerant flow will stop. I’d be inclined to think the real leak is the compressor shaft seal. ---
**Author:** ![asemaster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/5f9b8f/32.png) [@asemaster](https://community.cartalk.com/u/asemaster)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 4:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/8 "2011-05-25T04:12:04Z")
"The low-side charging port never sees 250 psi…" No, but if I remember correctly the low side port is on the accumulator and the high side is on the hose assy. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 4:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/9 "2011-05-25T04:34:25Z")
Here’s the tool required to replace the Schrader valve. [http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0454314](http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0454314) Tester ---
**Author:** ![Whitey](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/whitey/32/24680_2.png) [@Whitey](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Whitey)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 1:17pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/10 "2011-05-25T13:17:49Z")
Schrader valves are so cheap, I wouldn’t bother trying to service one. Just replace it. ---
**Author:** ![keith](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/keith/32/5518_2.png) [@keith](https://community.cartalk.com/u/keith)\ **Post date:** [May 25, 2011, 6:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/a-c-schrader-valve/64941/11 "2011-05-25T18:30:50Z")
You can buy a kit with two new schrader valves and the tool for your AC for a couple of bucks at any auto parts store. They are right there with the cans of refrigerant.