You don’t need a longer socket, you need a longer handle on the ratchet. That can be accomplished by slipping a slightly larger diameter length of pipe over the ratchet handle. I have various lengths of these extenders in my tool box for the more stubborn fasteners (along with several breaker bars). First, be double sure you’re turning the correct way. The extenders will allow you to apply much more force gradually. Use a 6 pt socket as well…
Thanks. I mean longer rachet. I don’t have any pipes to extend over it. My dad’s garage had them and I knew that trick but I don’t so I’ll buy a long torque wrench or get some mechanic to do it for 25-50 bucks. I also ripped my groin trying to loosen that bolt and I doubt I can pry it even with a breaker bar. Thanks for your help. It has to come free
Yeah, I change the fluids way too fast but it gives me something to do and I know my car won’t fail due to bad fluids. thanks
I’ll try Valvoline next since I bought 3 qts of WS from Toyota for $8 a qt. Super tech has low viscosity for WS applications so I might try that. The fill plug is a 24mm plug on the side of the trans. The drain plug is a 6 mm hex plug. Watch me not be able to get that out either. LOL
You deserve a pat on the back, too often is better than not often enough.
Some guy wrote on the net that WS isn’t synthetic but you know how that goes. Then how come WS cost me $8 a qt at Toyota. Seems cheap for synthetic at a dealer.
200 for just drop fluid and refill with that special machine. No pan or filter change
Yeah, I change at 7-9K or so. Gives me something to do. And only 50% is replaced so it takes 4 changes to remove 92% of the fluid so doing it every 10K or less, still keeps some old fluid inside. Someone wrote WS is junk but that was his opinion. I don’t know how good it is. It is pumped in from the bottom at the dealer with a special machine. I want to do it from the side of the trans in the fill hole.
Someone on the net said the flash point was low and the WS fluid burnt and went to trash. That was his argument. You can use other fluids like prestone and Valvoline that don’t void the warranty. How many use dealer oil during the warranty period???
Yeah, and I hate “what does the manual say”. Toyota didn’t even sell a trans filter for my 2005 camry. I had to go to autozone or similar to get one. They don’t even stock the metal crush washers for my 2015 rav 4 on the trans plugs.
I know I do it way too often but I like it and get satisfaction it’s lubricated well. I waste 20 a day on the lottery so what’s a fast oil or trans change worth?
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I happen to have a 2005 Camry, and I’ve owned several Toyotas over the years . . .
I don’t bother going to the dealer for a trans filter, for a few reasons
They NEVER have it in stock. In fact, Toyota doesn’t even list a “trans filter kit” . . . you have to buy the gasket and filter separately. WTH
Their price is extremely expensive
They claim it is NOT a filter, but it’s supposedly a reusable “screen” . . . I actually did a trans service on my car yesterday. It sure looked like a regular old filter to me, but what do I know
They CLAIM their own dealer mechanics never change the “screen” . . . but clean it and put it back
If I’m going to the trouble of dropping the pan, there’s no way in heck, I’m going to clean that filter and put it back. I don’t care what terminology you want to use. I’m wiping down the pan, replacing the gasket, and replacing the filter
Interestingly enough, their engine oil filters are competitively priced . . . actually slightly cheaper than Wix, for example
I sure hope you’re kidding about $20/day on the lottery
hope that plug is not spot welded from the inside.
“hope that plug is not spot welded from the inside”. How could one spot weld from the inside
@kurtwm2010 I have never heard of such an idea, I suppose it does not mean it could not happen, but if they sell the replacement part it seems an unreasonable assumption.
I had used an aftermarket filter for my 05 Camry but on the next drain I noticed I got too much fluid out. So figured maybe the filters are different and went to the dealer, they ordered one of their “Screens” for me at the tune of $50 and now when I drain it, I get the amount out that I am supposed to (~3 qt, 8 Oz). I have not done a filter change for a while but since I am doing a drain and fill every 15K miles, I think I am okay (no debris on last pan drop).
As far as pipes, I have a few schedule 40 PVC pipes that have served me well. Maybe I am too weak to break them!
I have noticed no difference in quantity of atf drained, aftermarket versus factory filter
But I have a V6, and I know my transmission is not identical to yours. It’s actually a different model, FWIW
I do a pan drop, filter, gasket and fluid every 30K . . . the fluid I drained yesterday looked very clean, in spite of 30K worth of use. No debris in the pan, either
BTW . . . even though this doesn’t apply to you specifically, I think 8$/qt of WS is quite reasonable. Heck, even Castrol or Valvoline multi-use atf probably costs that much . . . !
You’d buy a torque wrench over a length of pipe? BTW a torque wrench is for tightening, not breakaway force. That’s what a breaker bar is for and they cost a fraction of what a torque wrench costs.
Or you’d pay some mechanic $25-$50 to do it once?
The pipe will cost you a fraction of any of those choices, is readily available in your preferred flavor of base metal at any home improvement or hardware store and is reusable many times over the course of your life. You buy it once. I don’t quite understand the logic in your choices…
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I would
- Change the ATF every 50k, not 10k. Waste of time/money to change it every 10k
- Use only Toyota’s ATF specified for that vehicle
- Check with other dealers for their price
- If $200 is it, and is too much every 50k, get a high quality breaker bar and 6-point socket
I’d get a breaker bar and not risk using gorilla force on a ratchet.
Get a 1-2ft pipe from a hardware store.