2010 Lexus RX 350 — fan won’t blow after jump

Check for power at the stud, that is power going into the fuse assembly. To check power out of the fuse you will need to access the bottom of the fuse box, that won’t be easy.

It is easier to check for power at connector AF4. Remove the drivers door sill plate, remove the drivers foot well side panel. It is a 3 pin connector with a large blue wire.

I would have never known about this connection, thank you! Back probed the connector at AF4 and received a reading.

I believe that both wires have 12 volts. Connect the black lead to body ground and check the blue wire again.

By the negative 12.66 shown on the meter it appears that there is no power on the blue wire, seems like there is a problem in the fuse box. Do you have 12 volts on the stud in the fuse box?

After looking at the wiring diagram and the last picture I am wondering if the connector the meter probes are connected to is really connector AF3, since the diagram shows blue and black wires in that connector. Am I looking at this correctly? If that is correct then you need to check for power on the blue and white wires going to the 50A heater fuse. I assume power is tied to that fuse at all times but I don’t know that for certain. If there is power on those wires going to the blower then the control portion of the blower circuit needs to be checked out. The voltage on pin 23 of the AC amplifier module will most likely be some positive reading in order to turn on the blower.

The picture of the fuse module shows the fuse elements in the windows. It is easy to see if there is a blown fuse by looking at the elements tied to the solder points. If a fuse is bad there will be a separation in the element connection which will be easy to see.

You are right. So the black lead is reading 12 volts, the post in the fuse box is reading 12 v, and the blue is reading nothing.

Hopefully you have checked out my previous post.

There are windows in the fusible link (fuse module) and all the fuses look good. This fusible link has been replaced, but after replacement of the fusible link the blower fan was still not functional.

You will have to remove the fuse assembly and check the connections below.

Okay, that is good. I now suggest you check the power going to the blower from the 50A heater fuse and verify that 12 volts is getting to the blower. You may have to back probe the connection on the module for the blower.

oomph, the entire fuse assembly? What connections below will I be testing?

Yes, this was already done, there is not 12 volts getting to the blower. Also, in the picture I am back probing (incorrectly) the connection at AF3. The AF4 connection is the one that clips into the blower fan (which was back probed to verify that it is not receiving power).

I assume that one of the fuses in that module shown previously is the 50A fuse for the blower. That is the one of concern.

Yes, thats a correct assumption. One of the fuses in the module is the 50A fuse for the blower.

Okay, that makes things simple by not having power from the fuse. The trouble is most likely at the connection where the blue and white wires are shown in the diagram to connect together. I don’t know where that is but @Nevada_545 may have that info.

Looking at the fuse assembly in post # 20, I don’t see a blown fuse segment, I believe it is the second one.

With no blown fuse and no power on the blue wire, the damage must be in the fuse box. Examine the connections below the fuse assembly.

@Nevada_545, it seems that the picture of the meter shows the probes are connected to connector A3. Do you know where connector A4 is at, which ties the blue and white wires together for power to the blower?

Connector AF4 is the one in the picture, the back side of the connector should be the white wire.

Okay, I follow you. If that is the case then it seems that the black wire going to that same connector isn’t shown in the wire diagram, that I can see at least. I assumed that the connector was A3 since the drawing shows the same two wire colors that are seen in the picture.

Sorry for all the confusion. I am glad we narrowed down the culprit, but am worried about this next step. Do you think this is a possible DIY repair or will it need to be taken to a shop.

It should be pretty easy to find the problem and fix it. You are just trying to find a bad connection that is between the fuse and the connection to the blower motor. If that blue wire your meter probe is on, is the correct blue wire that ties to the fuse, then you just need to find the other end of it. It should connect to one of the fuse links of the module you replaced. Look for the blue wire going to the other side of that fuse connector. Unless the wire has been cut somehow (not likely) the bad connection should be where the fuse connects to the blue wire.