# 2010 Chrysler Town & Country doesn’t always start **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** chrysler, towncountry\ **Created:** [August 3, 2018, 10:26pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227 "2018-08-03T22:26:06Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 12\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Ginger05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/b2d939/32.png) [@Ginger05](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ginger05)\ **Post date:** [August 3, 2018, 10:26pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/1 "2018-08-03T22:26:06Z")
Car doesn’t always start. Has had ignition switch, starter and a couple of relays replaced. Still has the problem. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [August 4, 2018, 12:09am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/2 "2018-08-04T00:09:25Z")
> [@Ginger05](#): > > Car doesn’t always start. Does it crank ok, but won’t catch and run? Or does it not even crank? If the latter, does it make any sound at all when you try to crank? ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [August 4, 2018, 12:12am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/3 "2018-08-04T00:12:42Z")
The next time the engine won’t start, with the dash lights on, step on the brake pedal and shift the transmission into neutral and then try starting the engine. If the engine starts, it points to a problem with the transmission range sensor/park-neutral safety switch. [https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,2010,town+&+country,3.8l+v6,1444993,electrical-switch+&+relay,neutral+safety+switch+/+range+sensor,4584](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,2010,town+&+country,3.8l+v6,1444993,electrical-switch+&+relay,neutral+safety+switch+/+range+sensor,4584) Tester ---
**Author:** ![Barkydog](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/barkydog/32/2470_2.png) [@Barkydog](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Barkydog)\ **Post date:** [August 4, 2018, 12:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/4 "2018-08-04T00:31:26Z")
Is it weather related? Like on days of rain or heavy dew? ---
**Author:** ![Ginger05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/b2d939/32.png) [@Ginger05](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ginger05)\ **Post date:** [August 4, 2018, 1:33pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/5 "2018-08-04T13:33:18Z")
Most of the time it just clicks once. All the accessories work fine. We have had 2 starters put in and now sometimes it will click and wheeze but not catch. It does not crank. ---
**Author:** ![Ginger05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/b2d939/32.png) [@Ginger05](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ginger05)\ **Post date:** [August 4, 2018, 1:35pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/6 "2018-08-04T13:35:22Z")
I will try that next time. Thanks. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [August 5, 2018, 10:29pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/7 "2018-08-05T22:29:36Z")
So it’s a “fails to crank” problem then? I see. That’s a pretty common problem reported here, probably the most common of all. If the clicking you are hearing is coming from the engine compartment, the problem isn’t the safety switch. A safety switch failure results in no clicking at all when turning the key to “start”. When you get a click but no crank, usually replacing both the starter and battery solves this problem. But not a 100% of the time. The way a mechanic would diagnose it, if doing the obvious stuff didn’t work (like cleaning the battery connections), is to measure the voltage at the two connections on the starter motor, terminal to case. Both should be at least 10.5 volts when the key is in “start”. Ask you mechanic to make that measurement, and I expect you’ll then be well on the way to a solution. ---
**Author:** ![Ginger05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/b2d939/32.png) [@Ginger05](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ginger05)\ **Post date:** [August 6, 2018, 2:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/8 "2018-08-06T02:05:11Z")
Most of the time it doesn’t crank, it just clicks. Sometimes it will wheeze for a half-second. It has had the starter replaced twice and the neutral safety switch checked. It is very random when it occurs. Most of the time it starts up just fine. Sometimes it will start on the third try, sometimes it starts up it you count to 10, sometimes it will take 20 minutes and who knows how many tries. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2018, 1:11am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/9 "2018-08-07T01:11:39Z")
It sounds like you need to have that voltage check I mentioned above done by your shop. If you post the results here, we might have some further ideas. ---
**Author:** ![Ginger05](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/b2d939/32.png) [@Ginger05](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Ginger05)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2018, 10:37am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/10 "2018-08-07T10:37:37Z")
It has had the battery and the starter replaced and also the neutral safety switch tested. I found this article and so the mechanic is researching the TIPM. [https://www.searchautoparts.com/automechanika-chicago/commitment-training/diagnosing-no-start-issue-chrysler-town-and-country?page=0,0](https://www.searchautoparts.com/automechanika-chicago/commitment-training/diagnosing-no-start-issue-chrysler-town-and-country?page=0,0) ---
**Author:** ![BillRussell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/billrussell/32/3179_2.png) [@BillRussell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BillRussell)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2018, 10:51am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/11 "2018-08-07T10:51:56Z")
> [@George\_San\_Jose1](#): > > The way a mechanic would diagnose it, if doing the obvious stuff didn’t work (like cleaning the battery connections), is to measure the voltage at the two connections on the starter motor, terminal to case. Both should be at least 10.5 volts when the key is in “start”. Ask you mechanic to make that measurement, and I expect you’ll then be well on the way to a solution. I agree, you need to have this done, as well as checking the battery connections. ---
**Author:** ![Hirnbeiss](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/3ab097/32.png) [@Hirnbeiss](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Hirnbeiss)\ **Post date:** [August 7, 2018, 12:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2010-chrysler-town-country-doesn-t-always-start/122227/12 "2018-08-07T12:12:02Z")
The TIPM should be a prime suspect. It was a problem on my 2011 Grand Caravan, specifically the fuel pump relay on the TIPM. The relay occasionally stays on and discharges the battery, leading to no-starts. The fix is to bypass the relay using a Mopar recall for other Dodge models (link below). Has worked fine on mine for over 2 years now. > **[RCRIT-14V530-6412.pdf](https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCRIT-14V530-6412.pdf)** > > 3.10 MB