# 2009 Outback water pump issue

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Created:** [June 15, 2014, 5:24am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457 "2014-06-15T05:24:26Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![epb](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/b5ac83/32.png) [@epb](https://community.cartalk.com/u/epb)\
**Post date:** [June 15, 2014, 5:24am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/1 "2014-06-15T05:24:26Z")

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Sullivan Tire installed the wrong water pump and the timing belt the wrong direction. The car overheated and a different mechanic installed the correct water pump and timing belt. Will this affect the head gaskets and engine? Should I sell car?

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**Author:** ![insightful](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/insightful/32/2732_2.png) [@insightful](https://community.cartalk.com/u/insightful)\
**Post date:** [June 15, 2014, 7:07am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/2 "2014-06-15T07:07:52Z")

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It’s really hard to say. If the car runs great for a month or so, I’d say you’re in the clear. Keep an eye on the temp gauge (if you have one).

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [June 15, 2014, 9:52am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/3 "2014-06-15T09:52:09Z")

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If the overheating was severe it’s possible that the head gaskets could be weakened and possibly give up at some point in time.  
Any steaming, sluggish running, rattling, or tow truck involved?

Overheating can also cause piston ring and/or cylinder wall problems which in turn can lead to oil consumption. It would be a good idea to check the oil level regularly but that’s something that should be done anyway, overheating or not.

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**Author:** ![Fender1325](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/96bed5/32.png) [@Fender1325](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Fender1325)\
**Post date:** [June 16, 2014, 3:47am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/4 "2014-06-16T03:47:19Z")

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How long did you run the car hot? Did it spew coolant?

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**Author:** ![epb](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/b5ac83/32.png) [@epb](https://community.cartalk.com/u/epb)\
**Post date:** [June 18, 2014, 4:11am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/5 "2014-06-18T04:11:22Z")

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I retraced my steps…I heard a clicking noise 4 miles before the engine light came on. I had to drive 0.2 miles to safe spot to stop once the engine light came on. I turned off the engine. The car was towed on a flat bed. There was a crack in a plug they used to plug an unnecessary portal in the water pump. They installed a water pump for a turbo and mine is not. Hence an extra portal they tried to cap and coolant drained out. thank you for the helpful comments. I drove the car 1 1/2 hours and then up a steep hill 1/2 mile to a friend’s last weekend. The temperature gauge went almost to the red going up the steep hill. It has not done it since on open road driving, but the gauge does go up a little when at a red light.

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**Author:** ![insightful](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/insightful/32/2732_2.png) [@insightful](https://community.cartalk.com/u/insightful)\
**Post date:** [June 18, 2014, 7:37am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/6 "2014-06-18T07:37:48Z")

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“The temperature gauge went almost to the red going up the steep hill.”

You still have a problem with this car. You may want to sell it.

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [June 18, 2014, 8:01am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2009-outback-water-pump-issue/85457/7 "2014-06-18T08:01:21Z")

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What I would recommend is having both a dry and wet compression test performed as piston rings and/or cylinder walls could be damaged. This can lead to oil consumption issues.  
Ideally, you’re looking for 190 PSI dry and very little increase during a wet test.

A cooling system pressure test and hydrocarbon test could reveal a problem with head gaskets but will not show anything related to potential future head gasket failures.

Just my 2 cents, but any engine damage and the water pump redeux costs should be covered by the shop that installed the wrong water pump.  
They will likely balk at this and a lot could depend upon how hard you wish to push the issue.
