# 2008 Smart ForTwo - It wasn't the bulb or fuse **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** smart\ **Created:** [October 26, 2022, 2:37pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099 "2022-10-26T14:37:42Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 8\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Pam40](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/a5b964/32.png) [@Pam40](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Pam40)\ **Post date:** [October 26, 2022, 2:37pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/1 "2022-10-26T14:37:42Z")
Left signal light not working. Bulb has been replaced and fuse checked. what could be the issue. ---
**Author:** ![weekend-warrior](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/weekend-warrior/32/26122_2.png) [@weekend-warrior](https://community.cartalk.com/u/weekend-warrior)\ **Post date:** [October 26, 2022, 5:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/2 "2022-10-26T17:51:02Z")
Check for burnt or cut wires. also look for corrosion or any melting or browning where the bulb plugs in or in any connections. ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [October 26, 2022, 9:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/3 "2022-10-26T21:13:16Z")
Could be a problem w/turn signal switch. One fairly easy test, ask your shop to check the voltage on wire powering the bulb. If zero volts all the time, switch on or off, you know at least the problem is occurring before the bulb. Also look for black ground wire in vicinity of bulb fixture. Is it making clean contact w/chassis? ---
**Author:** ![GorehamJ](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/gorehamj/32/24103_2.png) [@GorehamJ](https://community.cartalk.com/u/GorehamJ)\ **Post date:** [October 27, 2022, 10:16pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/4 "2022-10-27T22:16:49Z")
Our 39th Smart car question ever. ---
**Author:** ![PvtPublic](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/pvtpublic/32/13089_2.png) [@PvtPublic](https://community.cartalk.com/u/PvtPublic)\ **Post date:** [October 27, 2022, 10:19pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/5 "2022-10-27T22:19:40Z")
> [@GorehamJ](#): > > Our 39th Smart car question ever. Don’t encourage them 🤣 😂 ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [October 27, 2022, 11:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/6 "2022-10-27T23:25:03Z")
The SAM may have failed. SAM stands for **Signal Acquisition Module**. A SAM module (also called Signal Actuation Module) receives data from sensors, switches, and controllers, and can send data, actuate (activate) components and monitor systems. Mercedes-Benz has been using SAM modules since the mid-90s. It controls everything electrical in the car. Such as turn signals. Tester ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [October 28, 2022, 12:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/7 "2022-10-28T00:49:48Z")
A Corroded ground connection is my go to for things like this. ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [October 29, 2022, 6:59pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-smart-fortwo-it-wasnt-the-bulb-or-fuse/187099/8 "2022-10-29T18:59:28Z")
With the bulb out, it would have been a good idea to use a test light or voltmeter and verify whether or not voltage was present at one of the terminal contacts. The multimeter could have also been used to verify a good ground lead and to even check the old bulb to make sure it was bad before replacing it.