# 2008 Honda Accord bad rust

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** accord, honda, rust\
**Created:** [September 28, 2024, 7:28pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052 "2024-09-28T19:28:09Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![duhwynning\_169199](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/duhwynning_169199/32/41657_2.png) [@duhwynning\_169199](https://community.cartalk.com/u/duhwynning_169199)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:28pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/1 "2024-09-28T19:28:09Z")

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Hello,

I have a 2008 Honda Accord with 252k miles on it and some bad rust. This was my first car and has had no real issues so I would like to keep it and just don’t want to have to get a new car because of rust. I have money to repair this but not sure if anyone would want to work on this and if it would make more sense if I figured out how to cut some of this out. It rusted out bad and when I was driving and some of it dropped down and I had to pull it off. Now I can’t jack the car up if i needed to replace the front driver side tire.

I am considering just cutting some of it off that is hanging and spraying it again with a rust-oleum reform and seal.

I haven’t called any shops yet to see what they could do but wondering if its even worth it. I am not too worried about how it looks.

 ![IMG_7787](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/d/6/d6e8cc6dd2edbd676acf5af219e03cbfe79e97ec.jpeg)  
 ![IMG_7788](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/9/6/967cf1c2fd1e1abcfd3bdb877a7f198889cf9596.jpeg)  
 ![IMG_7789](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/0/c/0c9e142dfad86314e8dab2420759b70967ffe2b3.jpeg)  
 ![IMG_7792](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/a/c/ac18b9cbab1581c150d14d1da6113edc6bfe670a.jpeg)  
 ![IMG_7795](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/d/7/d77d3edb94ea2e8522753ea4c7c71ebe4c6de369.jpeg)

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**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/2 "2024-09-28T19:32:06Z")

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Time to move on to another vehicle. The cost will be large even if a shop would work on it, The rust you can’t see will be even more damaging to the vehicle structure.

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**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/3 "2024-09-28T19:34:02Z")

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Yep, there’s no way to pay someone to repair this for a reasonable amount of money, given the miles. Just cutting out the rust solves nothing, the body is weakened.

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**Author:** ![duhwynning\_169199](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/duhwynning_169199/32/41657_2.png) [@duhwynning\_169199](https://community.cartalk.com/u/duhwynning_169199)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/4 "2024-09-28T19:41:20Z")

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Ok yeah I agree. But maybe I will just cut out anything that is hanging down and spray it just to get through another winter. I hardly drive it and have another work vehicle.

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**Author:** ![bcohen2010](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/779978/32.png) [@bcohen2010](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bcohen2010)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:44pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/5 "2024-09-28T19:44:13Z")

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With 252k miles, and rusted-out rocker panels, I’d just drive it until it needs something more complicated than a battery or tires, and then junk it. I’d ignore the people telling you to junk it now, but I also wouldn’t spend money trying to fix the rust, either. I am originally from Illinois, and I remember driving some real rust buckets in my life. Cars there used to look like this after 10-15 years. Still, I thought modern vehicles had better rust protection.

I guess I’m spoiled living in Arizona, where you can buy a 20+ year old car with no rust at all, and not even have to worry about this problem.

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**Author:** ![duhwynning\_169199](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/duhwynning_169199/32/41657_2.png) [@duhwynning\_169199](https://community.cartalk.com/u/duhwynning_169199)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/6 "2024-09-28T19:50:34Z")

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Ok cool thanks! Yes and in the past year got new breaks, tires, battery, starter and alternator so can’t see myself getting rid of it now but anything more serious I will just get something else.

Yeah it is really too bad with these northern states haha I should have gotten to it earlier though because like 9 years ago it had a big scratch on that door from a retaining wall and I didn’t think about painting it to stop rust. 3 years ago I tried to fix it with sanding it down and bondo but it got worse now. Next car I get I want to make sure the parts round the wheel and below are plastic.

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**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:54pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/7 "2024-09-28T19:54:10Z")

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The pinch welds on my sons Pontiac were weak and collapsing when using the spare tire jack. He didn’t dislike the car but after 7 years he found a deal on a better car and sold the Pontiac.

To replace the rocker panels and pinch welds could cost $10,000, plus doors and rear quarter panel repairs. $20,000 cash deposit necessary, nobody is going to take you seriously. Keep using the car until it is no longer practical.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![duhwynning\_169199](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/duhwynning_169199/32/41657_2.png) [@duhwynning\_169199](https://community.cartalk.com/u/duhwynning_169199)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 7:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/8 "2024-09-28T19:55:57Z")

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Ok gotcha yes I agree. Thanks for the info, that’s good to know.

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**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 8:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/9 "2024-09-28T20:46:04Z")

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Practically speaking, the best solution is to buy another car. You definitely need a proper welding repair job for that problem, and that’s going to cost you a lot of loot, and you probably can’t justify the expense for an 08 Accord. But if you learn to do the welding yourself, and have a spare car so you would be able to keep the car off the road during the time it takes you to do the repair (which might be considerable), and you’d consider this as learning a new hobby so there’s need to cost-out the time it takes you, then you might be able to justify saving it.

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**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 8:56pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/10 "2024-09-28T20:56:13Z")

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> [@George\_San\_Jose1](#):
>
> you learn to do the welding yourself,

It is a uni body vehicle so there is not a real frame to weld to like years ago.

One good size pothole could cause this accident looking for a place to happen just collapse.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![duhwynning\_169199](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/duhwynning_169199/32/41657_2.png) [@duhwynning\_169199](https://community.cartalk.com/u/duhwynning_169199)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 9:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/11 "2024-09-28T21:24:04Z")

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Ok thank you!

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 9:29pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/12 "2024-09-28T21:29:49Z")

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It’ll take more than just a welder to fix rust that bad.

Just drive the car until it’s unsafe to continue to do so.

And from the images, you might get one more winter outta her.

Tester

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 9:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/13 "2024-09-28T21:50:33Z")

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If a novice were to cut out the floors and rocker panels for replacement, the car would certainly never go back together again. Complete one of these projects yourself before recommending this to others.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 9:53pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/14 "2024-09-28T21:53:04Z")

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> [@Nevada\_545](#):
>
> before recommending this to others.

I don’t recall making a recommendation. Here’s what I said above

> [@George\_San\_Jose1](#):
>
> Practically speaking, the best solution is to buy another car.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![VOLVO-V70](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/8e8cbc/32.png) [@VOLVO-V70](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VOLVO-V70)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2024, 9:58pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/15 "2024-09-28T21:58:43Z")

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> [@George\_San\_Jose1](#):
>
> I don’t recall making a recommendation. Here’s what I said above

Yes you did , You encouraged the person to try and weld as a learning fix.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Clueless33](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/dbc845/32.png) [@Clueless33](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Clueless33)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2024, 2:11am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/16 "2024-09-29T02:11:54Z")

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> [@VOLVO-V70](#):
>
> Yes you did , You encouraged the person to try and weld as a learning fix.

This is a common thing on the island. People back in Jamaica would fix this car up and you’d never know its previous condition. I’ve seen worse than shown in OP’s post.

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**Author:** ![oldtimer-11](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e79b87/32.png) [@oldtimer-11](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldtimer-11)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2024, 6:47am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/17 "2024-09-29T06:47:15Z")

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Yiur car has no frame under it. The rocker panels and pinch welds are serving as the frame. Keep driving it only if the car collapsing on the road while driving does not worry you.

My son had a Dodge Omni with similar rust that collapsed at 10 mph in our court and the rear axle drifting away applied the emergency brake and spun him like a top.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/30_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2024, 6:58pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/18 "2024-09-29T18:58:13Z")

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> [@oldtimer-11](#):
>
> My son had a Dodge Omni with similar rust that collapsed at 10 mph in our court and the rear axle drifting away applied the emergency brake and spun him like a top.

Probably a similar situation to this:  
 ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/7/d/7d665c1e07795415c741239f44368814778d34da.jpeg)

If the OP is concerned at all regarding safety, he needs to have the car put up on a lift so that a qualified mechanic can check for damage to the suspension and suspension mounting components.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2024, 7:56pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/19 "2024-09-29T19:56:02Z")

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OP, if you decide to do a proper rocker panel repair, and you’d like to forestall a repeat, suggest to rinse out that area thoroughly on every car wash. And apply a thick coat of wax to that area at least a couple of times a year. When I lived in salted-road Colorado I’d wash out that area after every snow storm using a pressure spray wand at the self-serve car wash, sometimes 2-3 times a week. . .

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Nevada\_545](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nevada_545/32/41232_2.png) [@Nevada\_545](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Nevada_545)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2024, 8:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2008-honda-accord-bad-rust/197052/20 "2024-09-29T20:03:54Z")

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Rinsing the inside of the rocker panels is a tedious job, there is a series of small drain holes. What type of wax do you use inside the rocker panels?

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