The blower resistor is probably faulty.
This is what controls the speed of the blower motor.
Tester
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I always kept my gas tank full. I had to leave it 1/3-2/3 full for 10 days & it immediately went into the green. Another neighbor who had issues with it, I told to keep it there too & miraculously BOTH of us had it in the green the same exact day. She had a different issue on a GMC van.
It definitely does not work in the winter. I try it all months. I should say the heater, fan & A/C do not work on 1&2.
You guys are the best. Itās something I can replace? Or the entire unit has to be changed.
Tester
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Amazon was the cheapest. I got the AC Delco part number from Auto Zone, which was out of stock & $6 more, anyway. Thanks. Iāll get it ~Monday & let you & @George_San_Jose1 know. Iāll add your ānameā to my CarTalk favorites.
Thank you SO much. The resistor was the Levels 1&2 issue. Works now. @George_San_Jose1 get one for your Corolla (I think thatās the one you mentioned & fix yours too). All the way to Hollywood yesterday afternoon (30 minute drive) the A/C didnāt work. But at 8am, on the way home it worked perfectly, when I didnāt need it 
Maybe that resistor has something to do with that issue too. Iāll see over the weekend.
Good for you. Glad you got blower speeds 1 & 2 working again. Suggest you create a new topic (thread) for your A/C problem.
Thanks.I will when I have time, no time to work on it anyway this coming week. This morning it also didnāt go on & I pulled over & the fan was not on, which tells me the fan is what gets it to blow cold. Which makes sense of course.
The radiator/condenser fan is needed while driving at slow speeds or stopped, at speeds over 40 mph there is enough airflow to cool the condenser without the fan.
Did you verify that the compressor clutch engaged? The fan wonāt be switched on if the compressor isnāt developing pressure.
The A/C hasnāt worked once since replacing the resistor. The A/C clutch relay was bad. I replaced it with a new 8866 & still no cold air no matter what I know the old one was bad because I switched it with a different 8866 & the car wouldnāt start. Any clue what else could have gone out? The fuses are good & I switched the 1.0 diode with the wipers one & still nothing. Unless thereās a fuse or relay that does not state A/C on it that is something to check
I have never lived in LA or any other state for that matter, but here in my area, your pressures are low, at 72 degrees your high side pressure should be around 194psi + or - some (ambient temperature X2 plus 50), not 140 psi (running)ā¦ And I normally get between 30-35 psi on the low sideā¦ REMEMBER, there is exceptions to every ruleā¦ And with our high humidity, the fans are on when the AC compressor and system are working normal (when it is hot enough to need ac anyway)ā¦
If it was mine or my customers (in my area) I would evac the system (recover the freon to see how much was in the system) pull a vacuum for about 30 minutes and then put the correct amount back in the system with dye and go from thereā¦ Being able to do that is one (of many) reasons the AC work (freon) should be left up to the pros with the correct tools and equipment for the jobā¦
A great and needed A/C diagnostic tool, is to know how much refrigerant is in the system, this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Opinion will veryā¦ Good luckā¦
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If I am going to the trouble to pull out my test light, I am checking EVERY fuse, I have never understood that (looking for one fuse only to check), if I can check it with the light then check itā¦ But that is just me I guessā¦ lol
Of course I checked all the fuses & switched the 2 diodes. I cant check the closed relays, but I did check all the windowed relays. Iāll get it checked by a professional. Thanks.
@Tester @davesmopar @Nevada_545 @old_mopar_guy @George_San_Jose1 I just returned from a one week trip to Las Vegas where it was 110s each day. Before the trip, I replaced the blower resistor that @Tester recommended. That fixed the Levels 1& 2 that hadnāt worked in 2 or 3 years. Replacing that, must have somehow blown out the Engine Compartment Fuse #24 Air Conditioning Clutch relay. I drove from 4-8:30am with no A/C there, trying to get it to start working several times. I replaced the relay & the A/C still didnāt work. I checked every fuse & switched exact relays & diodes. I knew the 8866 was bad because I switched it with another & the car wouldnāt start. My educated guess is that trying to use the A/C all those times without it working must have evaporated most of the freon. I didnāt have my tools & my manifold gauge with me since I was 280 miles from home. I did have an A/C tester thatās the size of a tire gauge. It showed slightly low. I ended up needing to put the entire full can in there to get it almost halfway in the OK area. Air conditioner works perfectly now, all the way home in 114 yesterday afternoon. Thanks to all of you for your help. I would close this discussion if I knew how to.
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Update. A/C now works from the moment I start the car, instead of 10-15 minutes later. The relay was the issue.