# 2005 Chevy Classic race car conversion

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833>\
**Category:** General Discussion\
**Created:** [October 7, 2021, 3:00am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833 "2021-10-07T03:00:33Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [October 8, 2021, 4:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/21 "2021-10-08T04:34:38Z")

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Forget Haynes schematics. They are generally wrong and use the word “typical” a lot when referring to a schematic. One size fits all is their motto…

I have the GM factory manuals on digital for my Sonoma truck and even those manuals are seriously lacking when it comes to needed information.

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**Author:** ![shadowfax](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/shadowfax/32/13026_2.png) [@shadowfax](https://community.cartalk.com/u/shadowfax)\
**Post date:** [October 8, 2021, 12:48pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/22 "2021-10-08T12:48:58Z")

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> [@litymaconstruction\_177571](#):
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> i can’t do that. this is going to be a race car. we have to eliminate as much as possible.

Generally that philosophy doesn’t extend to wires that are necessary to make the car run…

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**Author:** ![It\_s-Me](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/it_s-me/32/12660_2.png) [@It\_s-Me](https://community.cartalk.com/u/It_s-Me)\
**Post date:** [October 8, 2021, 1:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/23 "2021-10-08T13:08:11Z")

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> [@litymaconstruction\_177571](#):
>
> before i got the volt meter out and started tracking the short.

You don’t have a “short”, you have missing wires.

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**Author:** ![It\_s-Me](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/it_s-me/32/12660_2.png) [@It\_s-Me](https://community.cartalk.com/u/It_s-Me)\
**Post date:** [October 8, 2021, 1:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/24 "2021-10-08T13:10:40Z")

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> [@db4690](#):
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> If you’re willing to pay a fee, you can access the GM technical website, which will give you access to those wiring diagrams and much more

If you have a library card, many libraries have access to all-data, and you can view and print from home.

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**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\
**Post date:** [October 8, 2021, 9:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/25 "2021-10-08T21:55:50Z")

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No offense intended . . .

All-data is okay, but “it isn’t all that”

I’d rather pay a modest fee . . . typically no more than $25 . . . and access the 100% correct information from GM itself

I’ve found all-data to be “lacking” in many areas

Even identifix is often better than All-data

btw, our city library allows you free access to Chilton data, which is okay, when you consider it’s free. But even that is missing quite a few things

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**Author:** ![jtsanders](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/c2a13f/32.png) [@jtsanders](https://community.cartalk.com/u/jtsanders)\
**Post date:** [October 9, 2021, 2:29pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/26 "2021-10-09T14:29:11Z")

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Probably worth looking at the free data before subscribing to the GM data. If the OP continues his racing career, then buying the subscription should be worthwhile.

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**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [October 9, 2021, 11:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/27 "2021-10-09T23:07:16Z")

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Just curious, do manufacturer’s still publish the paper-book format of the car’s shop manual? For both my Corolla, and my prior VW Rabbit, I purchased the manufacturer’s shop manual at the same time I purchased the vehicles. Those shop manuals were very helpful in aiding my diy’er repairs. I’m guessing that for newer cars (probably starting w/OBD II) the number of pages required make a shop manual impractical to publish it in book format. If so, are they still available, but only in CD format?

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**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\
**Post date:** [October 10, 2021, 1:52am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2005-chevy-classic-race-car-conversion/179833/28 "2021-10-10T01:52:25Z")

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I think they still publish the manuals . . . typically a 5-volume set nowadays . . . but I don’t know if they’re “required” to do it

At our fleet, we still get the manuals, but they usually sit on the shelf, in favor of the technical websites

However . . . there are times when it’s useful to have the physical manual inches in front of your face

Such as when you’re in a vehicle and performing electrical diagnosis and you want the wiring diagram, connector pin-outs, etc. right there and you do NOT want to get up to view the laptop, desktop, or what have you . . . because to move would be physically uncomfortable

There are situations when you know you’ll be in an awkward position for quite awhile . . . and you want everything you’ll need right there, within reach and legible

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