Are you leaking a lot of oil?
Then go with 10w40… lol
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yes about a quart per 300 miles
Do you see any oil dripping from the front of the engine around the crank pulley? Although your description sounds like this isn’t the case here, the front seals on these engines can develop a leak that throws oil all over the engine compartment and that makes a heavy burning oil smell under the hood. It does not always show up on the ground because it only leaks when the engine is running.
I think that there is a little bit of miscommunication / lack of clarity going on here. @weekend-warrior asked about leaking but you’re thinking and talking only in terms of “burning.” And @keith 's post was also about leaking.
You have burning smell and exhaust “coated in oil.” If the exhaust is oil-covered, then you have a bad leak, will smell oil burning, and will need to add more frequently than normal. So you need to sort out how much burns (then you worry about the pistons and whatnot) vs. how much is leaking - in which case the “mechanic in a bottle” attempts shifts to something that helps condition oil seals and the like.
Havent seen any but I’ll check
Best place to look is on the underside of the hood, just above the serpentine belt. Look for a line of oil from the front of the hood to the back just above the serpentine belt.
RE: whether the oil is being burned or is leaking
Given that @patrickconlin4455_193034 has to add a quart every 300 miles, if it were leaking at that rate, there would be oil dripping and puddles everywhere he stopped, making it nearly impossible to not notice.
I had a car back in high school that burned that much oil. I ended up using 2-4 cans of STP (which everyone raved about back then). It did reduce the consumption, though I don’t recommend Patrick using it. Just use a thicker oil, even 10w40.
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Have you had some really bad experiences with Toyotas you owned spitting out oil past blown front crankshaft seals?
The reason I’m asking is because it seems every time someone comes here talking about engine oil usage on a Toyota, you always go straight to the front crankshaft seal, as far as I can recall
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My diesel was down to a quart about every 200 miles before it developed a knock. I replaced it with a Gm goodwrench rebuilt. It had 200k. Comes a time is all if the chemicals don’t work.
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Yes, every Toyota except one. I don’t know why.
Okay
Thanks for the information
I hope you’re having better luck these days
I had a 1971 Ford Maverick with the 250 cubic inch inline 6 that consumed a quart of oil every 300 miles. I had the valve stem seals replaced and the oil consumption was reduced to a quart every 1200 .miles. i clould live with that.
The mechanic had an adapter that replaced the spsrk plug and connected an air hose from the air compressor which held up the valves while he replaced the seals. I don’t know if this is the.problem with the OP’s Camry, but I thought I would suggest it.
You’re comparing oranges to road apples.
Do you have any idea what it takes to get at the valve guide seals on this engine?
Tester
@Tester I didn’t.mean to imply that replacing valve stem seals on a Camry would be as simple as it was on the Ford Maverick. I’m sure the overhead cam and the transversely mounted engine makes replacing valve stem seals more complicated
I.hsve owned two Toyota Siennas and had to have the water pump replaced on each of them. The engine had to be disconnected from the mounts and turned sideways to remove and rrplace the water pump.
If In had an old Camry like the OP has, I would do the simple things and just add a quart of oil every 300 miles if the simple repairs suggested didn’t reduce the oil consumption.
My first car, a 1947 Pontiac burned a quart of oil.every 300.miles. I bought the car in 1961 for $75. At the time, I didn’t think it was worth a ring and valve job.