# 2002 Honda CRV PO301 Cylinder 1 Misfire

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** cylinder, cr-v, misfire, honda\
**Created:** [March 13, 2010, 3:14am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993 "2010-03-13T03:14:30Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 6\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![elevenssc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/e/fbc32d/32.png) [@elevenssc](https://community.cartalk.com/u/elevenssc)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2010, 3:14am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993/1 "2010-03-13T03:14:30Z")

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Already replaced the plugs with Autolite Iridium and the miss is still there. O’Riley dosent carry plug wires, so where do I get wires? (dealership = $$$)  
  
  
  
 Anything else I should be considering to solve the miss?

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**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2010, 3:23am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993/2 "2010-03-13T03:23:16Z")

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If you are on a budget, try a salvage yard for the wires…Then maybe a valve adjustment? Does your owners manual mention that? Then a compression test…

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [March 13, 2010, 4:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993/3 "2010-03-13T16:10:39Z")

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Ditto. A compression test shoud always be the first step because throwing parts at an engine with a mechanical problem can go on for a long time.

In a perfect world and without the marketing people involved, valve lash should be checked on a new car after a few thousand miles and every 30k miles, at most, after that.

You might skim this.  
[http://forums.motortrend.com/70/8058729/pickups-suvs/1997-2001-honda-cr-v-valve-clearance-issue/index.html](http://forums.motortrend.com/70/8058729/pickups-suvs/1997-2001-honda-cr-v-valve-clearance-issue/index.html)

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**Author:** ![trunkmonkey108](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/f6c823/32.png) [@trunkmonkey108](https://community.cartalk.com/u/trunkmonkey108)\
**Post date:** [May 6, 2010, 9:54pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993/4 "2010-05-06T21:54:52Z")

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late response, but the CRV’s definitely need their valve clearances checked, and more often than the manual recommends. otherwise you could get some very expensive valve damage. i believe the misfire code could be related so it’s worth checking. i did my own but it does take a bit of familiarity with the workings of the valve train and how to make sure you’re at top dead center on the cylinder you’re checking, but otherwise it doesn’t take higher math to figure it out. good luck-

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**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\
**Post date:** [May 6, 2010, 10:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993/5 "2010-05-06T22:05:40Z")

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Interestingly, I tried the internet to search for wires. It appears that Honda CRVs used a coil pack until 2002 and switched to coil-on-plug starting in 2003. I was unable to locate wires, but perhaps a more extensive search by yourself may prove more fruitful. I didn’t spend a whole lot of time looking.

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [May 7, 2010, 12:56am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2002-honda-crv-po301-cylinder-1-misfire/45993/6 "2010-05-07T00:56:41Z")

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Your first step should be a compression check as others have mentioned. If a cylinder is down due to tight valve lash then you can throw parts at it for eternity without solving the problem.  
An alternative (much faster) is to connect a vacuum gauge and see what the intake manifold vacuum is. If the vacuum is abnormal then follow that up with a compression test to verify the problem.

If lash IS the problem this means a valve job is going to be in order.
