Wouldn’t be simpler to put in a new battery and if not the answer have it fixed, raise the price because it will be a running vehicle and easier to sell.
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Didn’t mean to offend anyone but you suggested he backprobe to see if the pump was being energized . I was just asking if the fuel spraying out of the valve didn’t show the pump was being energized . I mentioned in a previous post he wouldn’t know how much pressure he had unless he hooked up a gauge .
Sure sounds that way to me. The OP should stop wasting time looking for an electrical reason (fuse, relay) for the fuel delivery problem.
The first time I mentioned backprobing was BEFORE he even mentioned fuel was spraying out of the fuel pressure test port
And I mentioned it again because he seemed intent on messing with and/or testing those relays, which he said had something to do with the fuel pump
I’m trying to help the OP . . . I’m the one that kept saying to hook up a gauge
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According to my source, your Mustang with the 3.8 V6 should have 35-55psi, measured at the test
btw . . . you don’t have an antitheft or security led flashing in the cluster, do you?
please refresh my memory, do you have any current or stored fault codes, in the engine control module?
Whatever guys , certainly not going to argue about it .
Okay. I have the anti theft feature, so when I shut the door and the car is off it blinks anti theft red a couple times. I did have a check engine light come on here and there before too. But, the gauges all looked good on the dash, and it was running fine before so I didn’t read too much into it. (I’ve had quirky cars that just show lights for no reason). The pressure is a little low. I was watching a video where a guy used an alum wrench to increase the fuel pressure on the fuel pressure regulator…How do I do that on a 2000 V6 3.8 mustang?
Thanks,
James
You don’t have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator
“The pressure is a little low.”
Well, what is the pressure?
When you’re cranking the engine over, and it doesn’t start, is the antitheft or security led flashing?
I wouldn’t discount that check engine light . . . it might have been for something relevant, such as “unauthorized start” or crankshaft position sensor
In which case I would do what?
You said the pressure was a little low . . . what was it?
Low end of the scale . . . say 35 or 36 psi?
Or just too low, period . . . say 25psi?
I meant to say, “if it is a little low.” I’ll go rent a pressure gauge. Walk me through the scenarios please. I do not want to go and rent things if I am just going to be told to replace the fuel pump either way. What happens if it is a little low? What happens if it is very low?
Okay, I just went and got a fuel pressure test kit, and while I was there bought a new fuel filter, because for this model, the pressure regulator is located inside of the fuel filter. So, I will test the pressure, record the readings before replacing the filter, and then again after replacing the filter. I’ll keep you all updated.
Thanks again,
James
You have a known issue which is a bad battery . From what I’ve gathered from reading your posts the bad battery is still in the vehicle & you’re using jumper cables to try to start it . Computerized vehicles can do wonky things if the battery is weak or bad . The first thing I would do is get that bad battery out of there & install a known good , fully charged battery . Might not help with your problem but would eliminate a known issue & of course go ahead & check your fuel pressure .
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OMG where on Earth are you getting your information???
Car cranks over but has a bad battery?
Carbon deposits in the crankcase?
Check engine light comes on for no reason?
Fuel pressure sprays out of the Schrader valve but you want to test the fuses and relays?
Adjusting the fuel pressure with an aluminum wrench?
Fuel pressure regulator located inside the fuel filter?
Wrong wrong wrong and wrong again. Nothing but wrong.
I’m a professional mechanic, pretty much an expert on engine performance diagnosis, and I can honestly say I don’t remember when I’ve heard so much nonsense.
I think you should tow the car to a shop and pay the $80-$150 for a proper diagnosis.
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I think some just hope for a $10 fix, perhaps a fog lamp relay will do the trick.
Operating with a weak or dead battery will only lead to more trouble. I think the fuel pump was failing from the beginning. The engine would crank with the weak battery but needed more power (jump) to get the fuel pump to operate.
This car most be in awful condition to not be worth the cost of a battery in order to sell it, how can anyone road test the car with a battery that won’t restart the engine if needed?
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