Can the oil pan be replaced if you leave the engine in the truck or just the gasket? If I go to the trouble, I am replacing the entire oil pan.
For now the thing seems fine and the leak is very manageable but if it starts dumping, I might have to change my plans and just bit the bullet.
Recently discovered the cause for my truckās poor engine performance. Carb idle circuits were clogged with very fine grit. Hard to believed, truckās 302 routine maintenance is supposed to include a new fuel filter every 3 months. Neglected that b/c before Covid truck didnāt get driven much at all. With the Corolla grounded, truck is my main daily transport, so it gets a lot more miles, and appraently that 3 months recommendation for the fuel filter change-out has merit.
Anyway, cleaned the grit from the bottom of the fuel bowl and out of the idle passages, new fuel & air filter, running like new again. Still puzzling why the misfires got much worse when the engine reached normal operating temperature. I would have expected some effect with temperature b/c choke plate was opening w/temperature, but the effect seemed greater than I expected. Choke plate opens pretty quickly after starting engine, 4 or 5 minutes, but serious misfiring started more like 15 minutes after starting engine. Itās a conundrum. I have a guess, maybe the engine heat was affecting the carbās seal to the intake manifold, the gap was widening with temperature, allowing unmetered air into the engine. The fasteners holding the carb to the intake manifold did seem a little on the loose side.
The oil pan
I saw a guy do this with the truck on the hoist
And it was so darn tight he even removed the balancer to sneak out the pan
One of my high school friends had an air-cooled VW Beetle. She was mechanically inclined & pretty strong & could remove the engine herself. She said the engine removal job took her less than 40 minutes. Just curious, how long would it take a pro-mechanic with the normal shop tools, lift, engine crane etc, to remove this truckās engine? It seems like the most time consuming part of the job would be to disconnect the exhaust system and separate the engine from the transmission. Neither of which seem like would take much time for an experienced mechanic. So what am I missing?
Whereās this going?
You would remove the engine in order to separate the oil pan from the block
The engine and transmission are removed together
No need to separate the engine from the transmission
2wd , no xfer case involvement, removing trans along with engine makes sense. Wouldnāt need to separate engine/transmission, but then would have to deal with stuff connected to transmission, speed sensor, shift mechanisms, transmission mounts, and disconnect rear driveshaft.
Again, it sounds like this might be a tad more complicated if the transmission comes out too. I would prefer not to have this oil leak and now I am finding a possible vacuum/crankcase pressure problem but added oil is cheap compared to this. Eventually I will either need a new clutch, something major will fail and I will get rid of the truck, or I will sell it running. I donāt drive it a lot but used it some today. It seems to be running better the more I drive it. I wonder if something was just getting gunked up as it sat for a while and didnāt get a lot of use. On the other hand, the fuel system was just pretty much redone.
I have done this a couple times with Geo Metro 3 cylinder engines. The Suzuki G10 engine is not all that big and I was able to lift them out of and into the engine bay myself. The oil pans on those are more of the traditional stamped steel pan and can be replaced quite easily with the engine still in the car. I seem to recall having to remove the transmission dust cover or something but it wasnāt anything complicated like on this truck.
For some reason the truck is running much better with no intervention on my part. I am wondering if something was up with the fuel system after the work I had done or maybe some bit of dirt had to work its way through. I supplied a new fuel filter at the time of all this work as well.
Maybe it is an intake air temp sensor??? It has been much warmer outside lately as the truck is running better but wouldnāt that throw some type of code or pending code? Right now I have nothing but the truck is running well so guess that is good overall but wonder if it will stay this way.
That would be my guess as well. With new fuel filter installed, hopefully you are good to go.
Ah I might have an answer for you. I was having this issue and I spent over $1,000 in parts and to no avail! when I suddenly realized it was a stupid wire going to the pedal sensor That had become stretched and wasnāt making contact intermittently when the gas pedal was pushed. This caused my car to misfire but never long enough to throw a code, over time the issue got worse and my truck started going into limp mode and was running rich.
Interesting. Do you have a theory why a faulty accel pedal sensor would cause a misfire? It seems like the symptom would be you press on the pedal but the car doesnāt accelerate, or that the throttle position doesnāt match the pedal position and the car goes into limp mode with the check engine light on.
The vent solenoid code has not returned in quite a long time. I think the truck sitting a while may have allowed something to gum up and more use freed it up. The misfiring is also not an issue now.