# 2000 BMW 528 overheats

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** bmw, 528\
**Created:** [October 16, 2021, 2:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006 "2021-10-16T02:03:32Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![N.Link](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/7ea924/32.png) [@N.Link](https://community.cartalk.com/u/N.Link)\
**Post date:** [October 16, 2021, 2:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/1 "2021-10-16T02:03:33Z")

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My 200 BMW 528i is overheating . At some point the serpentine belt and ac belts broke and caused the car to over heat. I had to replace thr radiator, radiator resivour, both belts. The “mechanic” returned the car to me 3 times still overheating within 1/2 mile. This car has not had any major problems before. I know ( squat) about mechanics

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**Author:** ![Darron](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/darron/32/21829_2.png) [@Darron](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Darron)\
**Post date:** [October 16, 2021, 4:08am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/2 "2021-10-16T04:08:48Z")

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It could be the head gasket gone, they don’t like being over heated and can also damage the head. It may be something as simple as they didn’t bleed the coolant properly, they get airlock’s in the system very easily so if you don’t know what you’re doing you’ll never get it bled successfully.

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**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\
**Post date:** [October 20, 2021, 2:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/3 "2021-10-20T14:13:15Z")

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The water pump could be bad, they should have replaced it when they replaced all the other stuff.

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**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\
**Post date:** [October 20, 2021, 2:17pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/4 "2021-10-20T14:17:14Z")

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Your “mechanic” replaced the radiator and did not do a 1 mile test drive for overheating? Did you tell him it was overheating? And he said what?

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**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/30_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\
**Post date:** [October 20, 2021, 2:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/5 "2021-10-20T14:50:30Z")

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> [@texases](#):
>
> The water pump could be bad, they should have replaced it when they replaced all the other stuff

I think it’s very likely to be the water pump.  
If it’s an electric pump, even though it’s not covered by this Class Action Suit, that lawsuit gives you some idea about how common electric water pump failures are on that make:

> **[BMW Water Pump Lawsuit Settlement Approved By Judge](https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/bmw-water-pump-lawsuit-settlement-approved-by-judge.shtml)**
>
> Final approval has been granted to a BMW water pump lawsuit settlement over pumps that allegedly prematurely fail long before they should. The class action lawsuit alleges the electric water pumps cause the engines to leak coolant and overheat.

> [@N.Link](#):
>
> The “mechanic” returned the car to me 3 times still overheating within 1/2 mile.

I respectfully suggest that you find a new mechanic. IMHO, returning it to him once wouldn’t be a cause for major concern as long as he fixed it on that return visit, but if he failed on 3 return visits to properly diagnose the problem, then he isn’t much of a mechanic

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [October 20, 2021, 8:18pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/6 "2021-10-20T20:18:49Z")

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If it overheats within a half mile then I suspect a faulty gauge or a thermostat that is stuck closed on top of the water pump as mentioned.

I would not be terribly enamored of a shop that replaced all of those items and did not test it after the repairs while also not considering a possible faulty thermostat or water pump.  
And to do it 3 times? Ridiculous.

Just my opinion, but I consider a thermostat a maintenance item to be replaced at various intervals. That’s one of those better to be proactive items rather than find out at midnight while in a suspect neighborhood or a 100 miles from nowhere.

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**Author:** ![weekend-warrior](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/weekend-warrior/32/26122_2.png) [@weekend-warrior](https://community.cartalk.com/u/weekend-warrior)\
**Post date:** [October 20, 2021, 9:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/7 "2021-10-20T21:08:54Z")

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did anyone check to see if the radiator fans are coming on?

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [October 21, 2021, 12:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/2000-bmw-528-overheats/180006/8 "2021-10-21T00:45:16Z")

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If the engine compartment fans are working, and the coolant has been air-bled, the next step is probably to pressure test the cooling system. There may still be a small leak which is preventing the system from reaching the proper pressure. That allows the coolant to boil, which will cause overheating. The pressure cap should be tested at the same time.

I’e never had a water pump that completely quit pumping. Usually when mine fail they leak first. If I wondered if the water pump and/or thermostat wasn’t working on either of my vehicles (my not apply to yours) I’d just remove the top radiator hose and see if water really poured out when the engine reached normal operating temperature.
