They may be a different series, but from the top, they look alike.
By Wikipedia’s account, the 4AFE and 5EFE are quite similar in design. But they are indeed a different series and different engines. The 5EFE has less displacement since it is for a smaller car.
Earlier Corolla’s and Tercel’s shared the same series engines, 4AC (1.6L) in the Corolla and 3AC (1.5L) in the Tercel. A few people have put the 4AFE in their Tercel 4wd wagons. A couple have even put the 4AGE in. I put a 4AC in mine. Its much easier to fit in.
Alright. I’m taking it in to get the new part in and I asked about all the other things he could preventatively fix while in there. Thanks everyone for all this helpful info!
I’ll let you know what happens…
The dealer says he is willing to pay for the part but is not paying for the labor… the car is still under the 30 day lemon law in massachusetts and I’m wondering what I can say to get some help with the cost of labor. Any advice?
It never hurts to ask! State your case why you think they should cover part of the labor (nicely) and maybe they will.
As for the struts and shocks… You can’t tell if they are worn by simply looking at them. Mileage alone is not an indication. Generally, if they are not leaking oil (not just a oily film - leaking!) and the car doesn’t feel bouncy or loose to you while driving, don’t change them. Unless they are just so rusty they are falling apart - that could be possible on a 20 year old car. They may last 200,000 miles if driven on mostly smooth roads.
Keith - So, would your earlier comments about the timing belt be no longer relevant since the engine is 5EFE or no. I guess I’m still a little unclear as to what to ask my mechanic. Just, can you replace the timing belt pre-emptively? Or, can you look at the timing belt to see if it needs replacing? I wish I knew more about cars! But, I am learning!
Just to update - the new steering rack is in. No leaks so far. And haven’t done anything about the shocks and struts. People have said different things to me. Some say replace some say don’t.
Yes, you can (actually should) replace the timing belt pre-emptively, because when the belt goes, you’re suddenly and without warning left with a car that won’t drive, which is always very inconvenient, and possibly dangerous, depending on where you are when it fails.
Yes, replace the timing belt when it is due. And at the same time, replace the parts associated with it, such as tensioner and water pump. You mechanic will know what else to replace.
It’s very simple . . . if you don’t know when the timing belt was last replaced, consider it way overdue
@db4690 is most correct… This is the philosophy I adhere to and have never been let down. An Excellent rule of thumb…and almost default thinking when I pick up a “new used” car…
Okay. It’s going in for the timing belt change tomorrow. The car is driving so much better now. The only thing that’s still bugging me is there’s a rattling sound right underneath the gas pedal, sometimes rattles in a way that feels like something might be loose or like it’s almost hitting up against the underside of the gas pedal.
Any ideas?
You would need to simply take a looksie…we cannot guess at that one…
In regard to this rattle you speak of, does this rattle occur at idle or does it occur only on acceleration?
If the latter you might consider a rattling heat shield on the exhaust or pinging due to pre-ignition.