# 1996 k1500 4.3l **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** chevrolet, 1500\ **Created:** [May 29, 2020, 9:20pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030 "2020-05-29T21:20:53Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 9:20pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/1 "2020-05-29T21:20:53Z")
Hello Everyone, ``` I have being working on this truck for a long time now. The engine was replaced and since then, it has had some sort of problem. By now I am pretty sure I have replaced all sensors, computer, 3 Oxygen sensors, fuel regulator, spark plugs, wires, coil... ``` My engine light went on about two weeks ago, but I really did not want to deal with it again, but yesterday, all it took was a little hill for the truck to start having a real hard time to go, to the point that I had to go to the side and let people pass me… so the engine has very little power. I checked and I have 3 error codes, which in my opinion, they are related to the problem. Error codes are: P0152 P0327 P1441 I am wondering if two of those codes are happening because of the troublemaker code… Any help is greatly appreciated, Steven ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 9:25pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/2 "2020-05-29T21:25:29Z")
> [@Jordan69](#): > > because of the troublemaker code What’s a troublemaker code? Tester ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 9:33pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/3 "2020-05-29T21:33:15Z")
The P0152 seems like a potential serious problem. Ignore the P1441 for right now. The P0357 is potentially a knock sensor wiring problem OR bad PCM. Potential causes of an P0152 code include: Bad bank 2, 1 o2 sensor incorrectly reading rich condition Engine running rich and o2 sensor Correctly reading rich condition Signal shorted to voltage in harness Wiring harness damage/melted due to contact with exhaust components Vacuum leak (make have lean codes (P0171, P0174) present with it) Leaking injectors Bad fuel pressure regulator Bad PCM Is this thing really running rich? Smoke out the exhaust? Try unhooking the O2 sensor so the engine runs open loop. If the engine runs sort of OK, the O2 sensor’s wiring may have shorted out somewhere in the harness especially if it also runs to the knock sensor. Check that carefully. Given that 2 of the 3 codes share electrical wiring possible causes AND PCM possible causes, look to the wiring first. Especially with 24 year old wiring in direct line of fire from R&R of the engine. ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 9:43pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/4 "2020-05-29T21:43:12Z")
Thank you for your reply! Since the O2 sensor is new (about 200 miles), The PCM is even newer (about 100 miles) is there a way to test the voltage coming from the wiring? I thought that two of those wires should read 5 volts… and no, there is no smoke coming from the exhaust! ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 9:49pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/5 "2020-05-29T21:49:43Z")
Hook a scan tool up to the OBD2 port and read the voltage the PCM is actually seeing. It should cycle up and down quickly but averages about 0.7 volts at the right mixture. If the wire is damaged and shorting all kinds of stupid signals can occur. Start there first and see what the PCM is getting. Or as I suggested, unplug the O2 sensor (Bank 2 - passengers side - upstream) and then read what the PCM reads. If it recognizes the 02 is gone, the engine should run OK but will throw a bad O2 sensor code. ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 10:50pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/6 "2020-05-29T22:50:28Z")
[O2 reading](https://youtu.be/sjECPtjvTCc) I just do not know how to interpret the reading… What do you think? ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 11:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/7 "2020-05-29T23:12:22Z")
I think the video is marked private and I can’t see it. ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2020, 11:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/8 "2020-05-29T23:32:11Z")
I just changed it to public! Sorry about that! ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2020, 1:44am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/9 "2020-05-30T01:44:07Z")
It looks about right. A bit compressed to get a really good look but this is how it should look; lean, rich and correct. [http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/afr/o2chart.gif](http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/afr/o2chart.gif) Was it actually running badly when you took those readings or was it OK? ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2020, 3:22am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/10 "2020-05-30T03:22:57Z")
Truck was running OK… it seems it only runs bad after and hour or so of driving! Why is that the case? it makes it so much harder to diagnose because it runs bad at random times! I had a couple of friends coming over to test it with their equipment, and the truck was running OK, so that was a waste of time, but sometimes like yesterday, it was driving so bad after only 10 minutes that I thought I was not going to make it home. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2020, 3:31am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/11 "2020-05-30T03:31:14Z")
Have you checked the fuel pressure? Tester ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2020, 3:56am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/12 "2020-05-30T03:56:23Z")
great point, but yes, fuel pressure was normal. thanks for your comment ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2020, 12:21pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/13 "2020-05-30T12:21:07Z")
> [@Jordan69](#): > > it seems it only runs bad after and hour or so of driving! Why is that the case? My Ah Ha moment was going to be the ignition module but that doesn’t explain the error codes for only Bank 2. Then I saw on RockAuto that this engine had the “spider” fuel injection system. This thing; ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/4/4/441f41dfd05d929731a20b3918f55c6b331ae42c.jpeg) It is basically 2 fuel injectors for each cylinder bank sent through lines to each cylinder. The way it works is it fires all the injectors for one side then the other. Fuel then just “hangs around” the intake port until the valve opens and suck the fuel and air in. I think the Bank 2 side of this injection system is sticking open and dumping lots of fuel into Bank 2. They were not the most reliable device back in the day. That’s why they went away. Also looks like there is a conversion to 6 individual injectors for a similar price to reman units for about the same price. I’d recommend that instead of a reman factory-style system. Notice the 6 injectors and wiring Pic below: ![image](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/7/e/7e838a5e705cb7034838a139a01ef7678b2258ec.jpeg) You may want to do a test before you change it out. Go drive the truck with whatever OBD tool you are using. Watch the short and long term fuel trim values for both banks so maybe you can see if the Bank 2 trims are going more and more negative as the engine bogs down. If Bank 1 trims don’t respond as much as Bank 2, that’s some confirmation that we are on the right track. ---
**Author:** ![Honda-Blackbird](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/honda-blackbird/32/3159_2.png) [@Honda-Blackbird](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Honda-Blackbird)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2020, 12:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/14 "2020-05-30T12:32:16Z")
OH GOD…NOO NOT THE SPIDER !!! I truly hate those damn things. I would go with what The Man of Mustang suggests here. The Spider can cause most of what you are complaining about and so much more ! Glad I never owned a vehicle with one, but I surely had to replace a lot of them to solve issues like this on other peoples vehicles. I truly despise that thing and the trouble it causes. ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2020, 1:00am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/15 "2020-06-04T01:00:11Z")
Thank you so much for your help and I am extremely grateful for your aha moment. I am checking Rockauto to order the spider updated new version and it seems that is the only one they carry (the new updated version) … I am right? Jordan ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2020, 1:02am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/16 "2020-06-04T01:02:01Z")
> [@Jordan69](#): > > the spider updated new version and it seems that is the only one they carry (the new updated version) … I am right? No . . . you’re wrong You can still get the old version . . . although I don’t know why anybody would want to do that ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2020, 1:21am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/17 "2020-06-04T01:21:00Z")
I appreciate your comment… I am in [rockauto.com](http://rockauto.com) Could you kindly tell me which ones I could choose from? Thank you! Ps. The one I am looking at says “conversion kit to MFI” I do not know what MFI means… ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2020, 2:14am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/18 "2020-06-04T02:14:12Z")
Get this one [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002221&cc=1051108&jsn=490](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002221&cc=1051108&jsn=490) Do NOT get this one [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1053753&cc=1051108&jsn=483&jsn=483](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1053753&cc=1051108&jsn=483&jsn=483) I have experience with both The first one works fine, and I believe it’s made in USA The second one is garbage, in my opinion ---
**Author:** ![Jordan69](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/b782af/32.png) [@Jordan69](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jordan69)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2020, 2:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/19 "2020-06-04T02:34:13Z")
Perfect! Thank you very much I founded it! and I also found the HK10 bracket, but I cannot find the #2048 gasket that they mention as required and not included. Do you know what gasket are they talking about? I searched on Rockauto without luck and searched on the web. I did however found the Upper intake manifold, but none of the ones available was a #2048… ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [June 4, 2020, 2:16pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030/20 "2020-06-04T14:16:37Z")
This part… available here… but a bit pricey! > **[Amazon.com: Standard - 2048 - Fuel Injection Parts - TBI Kit and Gaskets:...](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D0I1NA0?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1)** > > Buy Standard - 2048 - Fuel Injection Parts - TBI Kit and Gaskets: Fuel Injection - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases Since it is a note from a Standard product, I found it using the search terms “Standard Products gasket 2048” Or here on Rockauto for $25 [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1320907&cc=1051108&jsn=499](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1320907&cc=1051108&jsn=499) [Next page](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-k1500-4-3l/165030.md?page=2)