# 1996 Honda Accord

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** accord, honda\
**Created:** [May 13, 2014, 12:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996 "2014-05-13T00:03:20Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 8\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![shamch](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/d26b3c/32.png) [@shamch](https://community.cartalk.com/u/shamch)\
**Post date:** [May 13, 2014, 12:03am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/1 "2014-05-13T00:03:20Z")

</div>

The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I’m sure it’s due to an accident because it’s damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on…it does not blink.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/30_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\
**Post date:** [May 13, 2014, 12:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/2 "2014-05-13T00:49:50Z")

</div>

A damaged hood–in and of itself–will not cause the CEL to light up.  
However, if rain and other types of precipitation are getting into the engine compartment as a result of the hood not being secured, that might lead to electronic problems that could spur a CEL.

Also, the previous owner who was not diligent about repairing collision damage may have also been lax when it came to maintenance, and lack of timely maintenance would be a very likely cause of a lit-up CEL.

However…Why play guesswork?  
Go to an auto parts store (Auto Zone, Advance, O’Reilly, possibly Napa), and ask them to read the trouble codes that have been stored by the car’s OBD system. Then, come back to this thread and post those codes for specific advice. The codes will be in a format similar to “P0123”.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![0708Honda](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/0/82dd89/32.png) [@0708Honda](https://community.cartalk.com/u/0708Honda)\
**Post date:** [May 14, 2014, 3:33am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/3 "2014-05-14T03:33:36Z")

</div>

First try giggling the hood latch cable. Over time they seize. Then try to close it all the way.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![shamch](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/d26b3c/32.png) [@shamch](https://community.cartalk.com/u/shamch)\
**Post date:** [May 14, 2014, 10:36pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/4 "2014-05-14T22:36:59Z")

</div>

This is the codes:  
The OEM Number to Cross: P0401  
aaEGR insufficient flow  
Probable cause aa1. - Faulty EGR valve  
aa2. \_ Blocked  
EGR Passages in engine  
Thanks to All !

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![bloody\_knuckles](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ee7513/32.png) [@bloody\_knuckles](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bloody_knuckles)\
**Post date:** [May 15, 2014, 11:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/5 "2014-05-15T23:30:31Z")

</div>

You will have to check the tubing and pipes going to the EGR valve. They can, over time, build up deposits. Compressed air or pipe cleaners will sometimes clear the openings sufficiently to restore EGR flow and turn off the CEL. If that does not work then you might need a new EGR valve.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\
**Post date:** [May 16, 2014, 3:59am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/6 "2014-05-16T03:59:20Z")

</div>

@shamch‌

Check this out . . .

[http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf](http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf)

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\
**Post date:** [May 16, 2014, 4:25am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/7 "2014-05-16T04:25:46Z")

</div>

The EGR is a gadget that routes exhaust gas to where – normally – only fresh air goes (the intake manifold). In normal operation the fresh air is combined with gasoline, ignited, and powers the engine. Purposely routing exhaust gas to pollute the fresh air intake is madness, right? There’s a method to this madness. It produces a cooling effect. It’s to reduce the temperature of the combustion chambers. Otherwise they’d get too hot. Which can increase air pollution, and the excess heat can cause engine damage. So it is important to get this problem fixed with due speed. Passages which exhaust gas go though get gummed up with crud. Look at the end of your tailpipe for example. When the EGR passages get crudded up enough, the CEL will come on. It’s to alert you to fix it so expensive to fix damage doesn’t occur. It’s a common problem and mechanics fix this problem all the time. An inde shop should be able to handle this for you. No need to use a dealership unless under warranty.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\
**Post date:** [May 16, 2014, 6:35am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1996-honda-accord/84996/8 "2014-05-16T06:35:59Z")

</div>

It’s also entirely possible that the accident caused physical damage to the EGR system. IMHO the EGR system should be thoroughly checked out for physical damage as well as the usual checks of solenoid operation, carboned up valve, carboned up passage at the throttle body.
