# 1995 Ford Ranger/Mazda B2300 **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** ford\ **Created:** [November 24, 2020, 12:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617 "2020-11-24T00:49:51Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 11\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![oldnotdeadyet](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/a6a055/32.png) [@oldnotdeadyet](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldnotdeadyet)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 12:49am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/1 "2020-11-24T00:49:51Z")
Simple question for a good mechanic: I am replacing the rear leaf spring shackle including the support. I had to grind off some pretty major rivets. Would a real mechanic have torched these off? If so, how would they avoid damaging the beam supporting the studs? ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 3:02am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/2 "2020-11-24T03:02:04Z")
I would have ground them off as you did. I own a torch, makes too big a hole, the grinder makes less work of it down the road. Full disclosure, not a pro mechanic. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 7:06am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/3 "2020-11-24T07:06:46Z")
When you install the new parts, I hope you’re using grade 8 . . . or the equivalent metric, which should be 10.9 . . . hardware ---
**Author:** ![oldnotdeadyet](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/a6a055/32.png) [@oldnotdeadyet](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldnotdeadyet)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 12:40pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/4 "2020-11-24T12:40:16Z")
The new parts from Dorman came with bolt/nut hardware. The bolts are black. I don’t know the name of the nuts, which are chrome plated. They jam on the bolt, presumably for a lock nut effect. There are no lock washers. Is the black bolt a Grade 8? ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 4:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/5 "2020-11-24T16:05:32Z")
Please post a picture of the bolts, specifically the head of the bolt ---
**Author:** ![oldnotdeadyet](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/a6a055/32.png) [@oldnotdeadyet](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldnotdeadyet)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 10:20pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/6 "2020-11-24T22:20:46Z")
I just finished the shackle job, and am a bit exhausted. Maybe in the AM. The head of the bolt said 10.9 if I remember correctly. The jam nuts are surprisingly stiff to put on. I learned a lot while doing this, so the next one should be easier. I am sincerely hoping there is not a next one. YouTube suggests getting the bolt+rubber out of the leaf spring end by burning it or heating it to melt the rubber. I ran a drill through the rubber a few times, and got the bolt out. ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 10:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/7 "2020-11-24T22:34:41Z")
The kits have self locking nuts. They are difficult to turn when the bolt reaches the final 2 threads which are undercut or have plastic inserts. Did the kit come with a new spring bushing? If not then get a new one. drilling that rubber ruined it. ---
**Author:** ![oldnotdeadyet](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/a6a055/32.png) [@oldnotdeadyet](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldnotdeadyet)\ **Post date:** [November 24, 2020, 10:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/8 "2020-11-24T22:51:02Z")
Yes, a new bushing. I had to improvise with a gear puller to get it in. I was glad to ruin the old bushing since the bolt would not come out, making it necessary. My nuts were undercut. ---
**Author:** ![NYBo](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/nybo/32/17281_2.png) [@NYBo](https://community.cartalk.com/u/NYBo)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2020, 3:31pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/9 "2020-11-25T15:31:13Z")
> [@oldnotdeadyet](#): > > My nuts were undercut. Since this is a family-friendly site, I won’t give my COVID-brain response to this. ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2020, 3:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/10 "2020-11-25T15:47:42Z")
The nuts are zinc plated, not chrome. Chrome if for dress up not for undercar parts. Likely the nut is deformed on the last 2 threads and that is the locking mechanism. The 10.9 is the metric equivalent roughly to SAE English grade 8 ---
**Author:** ![oldnotdeadyet](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/a6a055/32.png) [@oldnotdeadyet](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldnotdeadyet)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2020, 6:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1995-ford-ranger-mazda-b2300/172617/11 "2020-11-25T18:05:22Z")
I really appreciate the warning about the required grade. If Dorman had not included them, I would have purchased a much lower grade. I’ll remember that for the future. I have learned a lot on CarTalk Community.