A second update: battery indicator comes on when the car turns on. However, if I tap on the instrument panel the light actually goes on and off. I figure it could be a failing connection in the instrument panel or the indicator light is old.
This is the third time since the fuel pump relay yesterday that it has started up on the first try. Keep your fingers cross that it stays this way.
Make sure your serpentine belt is tight
Serpentine belt is tight. This is the second day that I have had no issues with starting the car (9 times probably). Knocking on wood, but hoping that this relay solved the issue.
Only other idea regarding the “Check Oil Soon” light, perhaps a bad oil pressure switch. It’s another relatively easy task to replace, but you have to get under the car do that. Should be located close to the oil filter. Cost is about $10 at Rockauto.com.
There could be mechanical engine problems, but I am sure that’s not what you want to hear.
In any case, frequently check the oil level.
Just a couple comments. Hope the relay is the issue, however, a failing fuel pump that is drawing too much current can cause the relay to fail, so the relay could be the result of a faulty pump and not the cause. I would feel better if you would have a guy/or girl do a test to see what kind of current that pump is drawing and if it is excessive.
I wasn’t clear if the battery light is flickering also, but you replaced the alternator. So same thing it would be nice to have the output of the alternator double checked as well as the condition of the battery. Then remember Tester mentioned a possible corroded battery cable that could be giving some problems.
Now I think you also had a oil pressure light? Or is it oil level light? If it’s oil level it’s no big thing as long as you verify you have oil. Just the sensor or ground problem. But if it is the oil pressure light that comes on after the engine is warmed up, that would not be good or again could be a bad oil pressure sensor. They are very cheap or have the guy also verify pressure with a mechanical gauge.
But hey it works.
After driving the car around today I am back at square one - the issue is back. For the past 2 days I got the car to start up without an issue at least 9 different times. However, I didn’t drive it anywhere. After driving it the issue has returned.
I did check the battery cables and the + connection looked fine, but the - connection looked a little worn. I cleaned it with a steel wire brush and wiped it clean but I still have the issue.
I plan to take it back to the mechanic I originally had it at since the owner feels bad that everything that was done did not fix the issue. So they’re going to diagnose it and see what they can do (the diagnosing is free at least). Hopefully I can use the advice that I’ve received here to guide them in their troubleshooting.
Bing - also it’s the check oil light. Not the oil pressure light. The oil was changed before the car was given to me. So I just keep on checking the oil level.
If it will be too much to replace (as the car really isn’t worth that much), I will probably sell the car to somebody to put into a demolition derby.
That is the difference, if the fuel pump isn’t holding pressure after shut off and the engine is hot, the fuel in the fuel rail will boil and push most of the fuel in the line back to the tank. Shutting off a cold engine won’t replicate the problem.
Normally this will cause a long crank time before starting, 10 to 15 seconds, not a no start condition.
Have the shop monitor the fuel pressure over night to see if it drops down due to the back flow.
There is a foot valve that is like a check valve to hold the fuel in the system when the fuel pump shuts off when you stop the car. To start the car reliably just count to ten when you turn the key on to the on position then after the count to ten the car wlill starty normally because the fuel pump will have tlime to fill the fuel system up to pressure before you crank.
I agree with old timer, this ‘mechanic’ sounds like the proverbial parts cannon. The first place I’d look is in the primary starter/battery circuit for loose and/or corroded connections, ALL OF THEM, no matter how trivial they might seem. They have to be TIGHT. If you grab the end of the heavy battery cable, on the solenoid for instance, try to turn it on its connection. PULL HARD, if it moves a millimeter it’s too loose. Next, the smaller wires attached to those connections. Take them off, eyeball them, check for loose crimping or any looseness whatsoever. The symptoms mentioned can all be due to a loose wire/bad connection.
Your flickering bat light from banging on the dash reminds me of my brother’s Blazer. One accessory after another began to fail and finally the brake lights. We took it to his buddy’s truck garage and I watched as easily a half dozen experienced mechanics took a swing at finding the fault. Some came back for a second and third helping. NADA, test lights worked but the lights themselves, no go. Other issues were power windows, door locks, etc.
Mounted on the firewall of this Blazer was a huge gang plug, maybe 6x6 or 8x8. It had a T-handle in the middle of it. By this time we had to have spent well over two hours there and so I started poking around the engine compartment, for no other reason than an abundance of boredom. In poking around I grabbed the T-handle in a ‘what’s this’ moment and the group at the back of the vehicle all started yelling and shouting toward me, “what’d you do”. Startled me into thinking I broke something. Well when we pulled the plug on the firewall apart it was just chock full of corrosion. Cleaned that up and ALL the problems resolved.
If you live in a state where it rains alot, roads are salted chances are.