# 1988 Honda accord idle issue

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Created:** [August 2, 2014, 10:44pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381 "2014-08-02T22:44:34Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 13\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Falslev](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/9dc877/32.png) [@Falslev](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Falslev)\
**Post date:** [August 2, 2014, 10:44pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/1 "2014-08-02T22:44:34Z")

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I took care of a vacuum leak on this car but I still have an Idle issue on a cold start it doesn’t wont to idle at all once I get it warmed up it idle’s in park and Neutral fine as soon as I put into drive it want’s to die I can keep it going by letting of the gas and then pushing the gas peddle again and take of quickly. Stopping at red lights I have to hurry and put it into neutral or it will die having the ac on makes it worse.

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**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\
**Post date:** [August 2, 2014, 10:56pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/2 "2014-08-02T22:56:55Z")

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The problem might be with the Idle Air Control valve.

[http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=942460&cc=1315583](http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=942460&cc=1315583)

The IAC valve keeps the engine’s idle speed under control during all conditions.

Tester

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**Author:** ![Falslev](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/9dc877/32.png) [@Falslev](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Falslev)\
**Post date:** [August 2, 2014, 11:11pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/3 "2014-08-02T23:11:56Z")

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where do I find this Idle air control valve

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**Author:** ![knfenimore](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/9fc348/32.png) [@knfenimore](https://community.cartalk.com/u/knfenimore)\
**Post date:** [August 3, 2014, 2:00am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/4 "2014-08-03T02:00:14Z")

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[https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=Ml\_dU9\_IEs6QyAS4zIKwCA&url=http://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D6h6Y70nxQ04&cd=2&ved=0CDYQtwIwAQ&usg=AFQjCNHFKda9hqQrhl-yxXUEgC4N8Mio5Q&sig2=FMn-B98PfTRFGlYnkKukAQ](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=Ml_dU9_IEs6QyAS4zIKwCA&url=http://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D6h6Y70nxQ04&cd=2&ved=0CDYQtwIwAQ&usg=AFQjCNHFKda9hqQrhl-yxXUEgC4N8Mio5Q&sig2=FMn-B98PfTRFGlYnkKukAQ)

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**Author:** ![Caddyman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/caddyman/32/23_2.png) [@Caddyman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Caddyman)\
**Post date:** [August 3, 2014, 7:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/5 "2014-08-03T19:46:04Z")

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Some of these Hondas were still carbureted, an entirely different animal…

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**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\
**Post date:** [August 3, 2014, 9:06pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/6 "2014-08-03T21:06:46Z")

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About half of that year model was carbureted and the other half fuel injected so it may vary.  
It could also be that a rough idle is not related to either one and could possibly be due to tight valve lash on one or more cylinders; along with a number of other things.

Considering the age and ? mileage maybe a compression test and look at the spark plugs would be a good start.

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**Author:** ![asemaster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/5f9b8f/32.png) [@asemaster](https://community.cartalk.com/u/asemaster)\
**Post date:** [August 3, 2014, 9:13pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/7 "2014-08-03T21:13:49Z")

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Does your car have a carburetor or fuel injection.

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**Author:** ![Falslev](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/9dc877/32.png) [@Falslev](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Falslev)\
**Post date:** [August 9, 2014, 8:12pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/8 "2014-08-09T20:12:37Z")

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It’s a carburetor and the mileage isn’t that high for a 88 which is 150,000 miles

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**Author:** ![insightful](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/insightful/32/2732_2.png) [@insightful](https://community.cartalk.com/u/insightful)\
**Post date:** [August 9, 2014, 8:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/9 "2014-08-09T20:46:17Z")

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Throw a bottle of Techron in the tank and go from there.

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**Author:** ![asemaster](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/5f9b8f/32.png) [@asemaster](https://community.cartalk.com/u/asemaster)\
**Post date:** [August 9, 2014, 8:51pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/10 "2014-08-09T20:51:07Z")

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150,000 miles might as well be a million for a 26 year old carbureted car. The chances of your carburetor being in fine condition and not needing a complete overhaul are pretty slim. There are myriad vacuum hoses on your car, and if I remember correctly your carb base gasket is a flexible rubber insulator that could very well be cracked as well.

I’d have the system "smoke checked " for vacuum leaks, and then buy and read a service manual that describes the theory and operation of the various vacuum and electric solenoids on your carb.

There are still shops out there with guys that know how to repair carbureted systems, but they’re getting expensive.

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**Author:** ![Falslev](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/f/9dc877/32.png) [@Falslev](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Falslev)\
**Post date:** [August 12, 2014, 5:27am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/11 "2014-08-12T05:27:31Z")

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I have had the carburetor out and replace the two gasket they were bad and replaced all the flexible rubber insulator hose that looked cracked or hard. I don’t have a vacumm leak like I had before but I still having the Idle issue of wanting to die as I put it into Drive.

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**Author:** ![wesw](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/wesw/32/2713_2.png) [@wesw](https://community.cartalk.com/u/wesw)\
**Post date:** [August 12, 2014, 5:30am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/12 "2014-08-12T05:30:36Z")

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every thing in the carb is probably ethanoled out. you could try replacing all the diaphrams, but every little spring and pc inside may be trashed

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**Author:** ![BustedKnuckles](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bustedknuckles/32/25_2.png) [@BustedKnuckles](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BustedKnuckles)\
**Post date:** [August 12, 2014, 6:10am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1988-honda-accord-idle-issue/86381/13 "2014-08-12T06:10:39Z")

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Consider a Weber carb conversion. I did one on an '82 Honda Accord when the factory carb went bad. The Weber simplified the installation and allowed me to tune it for better economy.
