# 1968 ford truck **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [July 9, 2007, 11:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499 "2007-07-09T23:46:07Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 10\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![couzensrestored](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/5fc32e/32.png) [@couzensrestored](https://community.cartalk.com/u/couzensrestored)\ **Post date:** [July 9, 2007, 11:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/1 "2007-07-09T23:46:07Z")
I have been working on a 1968 ford truck. The problem with it is that it is not getting any spark. I have replaced the ignition coil and condenser. But it is still not receving any spark to the distributor. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated as I am doing this for a friend. ---
**Author:** ![ok4450](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e9bcb4/32.png) [@ok4450](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ok4450)\ **Post date:** [July 9, 2007, 11:52pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/2 "2007-07-09T23:52:58Z")
Have you verified that you’re getting 12 volts to the coil when the key is in both the RUN and the START position? Have you checked the point gap (and actually made sure the points are breaking on the distributor cam high spots)? ---
**Author:** ![irlandes](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/b5e925/32.png) [@irlandes](https://community.cartalk.com/u/irlandes)\ **Post date:** [July 9, 2007, 11:55pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/3 "2007-07-09T23:55:36Z")
Sounds silly, but make sure the insides of the distributor actually turn when the motor is cranked. A guy at work once discovered his didn’t. 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![couzensrestored](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/5fc32e/32.png) [@couzensrestored](https://community.cartalk.com/u/couzensrestored)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 12:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/4 "2007-07-10T00:05:39Z")
I had not thought about the points, it just had new ones put in a year ago. But it sat over the winter and moisture got up inside the distributor. I will check that and the voltage. I will also make sure that it is turing. Thanks alot for the info. ---
**Author:** ![system](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/3X/1/d/1d47c66a543aa6c5a7873bb2320858f978ff52ed.png) [@system](https://community.cartalk.com/u/system)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 12:59am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/5 "2007-07-10T00:59:26Z")
If moisture got inside the distributor cap and it sat all winter, the points are probably corroded. I’d get a new set and a new cap, too! ---
**Author:** ![rocketman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/eada6e/32.png) [@rocketman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rocketman)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 1:04am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/6 "2007-07-10T01:04:22Z")
Do you know how to set the points on this type of ignition? Please ask if you don’t, we can walk you through it. BTW, engine size/type and other info might be helpful. I had a 69 Torino which was probably similar and must’ve changed this stuff a dozen or so times on that motor. Rocketman ---
**Author:** ![Triedaq](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/65b543/32.png) [@Triedaq](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Triedaq)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 1:30am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/7 "2007-07-10T01:30:30Z")
“Make certain the distributor turns” is not really far-fetched. When I tuned up the first car that I ever owned (a 1947 Pontiac that cost me $75), it would not start after replacing the plugs and ignition points. I checked the point gap, and checked for primary voltage and all was fine, but still no spark. I’ll bet I fretted over this for 2 hours before I saw the distributor rotor laying on the fender. I had forgotten to put it back in. ---
**Author:** ![edb1961](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/edb1961/32/122_2.png) [@edb1961](https://community.cartalk.com/u/edb1961)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 3:09am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/8 "2007-07-10T03:09:08Z")
When I had cars with points (69 and 71 Buick Skylarks), I always replaced the plugs, points and dist. cap once a year or at 12k. Have you checked the ballast wire/resistor. If the ballast is bad the car will not start. If you supply the engine specs, I can look up the point and plug gap. Ed B. ---
**Author:** ![rocketman](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/eada6e/32.png) [@rocketman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rocketman)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 11:58am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/9 "2007-07-10T11:58:17Z")
Good idea edb! That ballast will be hard to diagnose and it is easy to replace. When you posted it reminded me of my borthers’ old Ford pickup which he couldn’t start, turned out to be that. ---
**Author:** ![MikeInNH](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/a587f6/32.png) [@MikeInNH](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MikeInNH)\ **Post date:** [July 10, 2007, 1:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/1968-ford-truck/1499/10 "2007-07-10T13:03:52Z")
Check the voltage to the coil when ignition switch is turned on. If getting voltage then check the voltage to the points. With the ignition switch on manually open and close the points…you should see spark. Make sure the points are set correctly. And do you have access to a dwell meter?? These systems are NOT too complicated to trouble shoot.