An artist with an acetylene torch can blow those broken studs out of there in 5 minutes…
@Fender1325
I’m not questioning your ability, but I personally have made a few mistakes in regards to stud removers
I initially didn’t see that the stud removers have instructions imprinted on them . . . it tells you what size drill bit to use. A few times I drilled the wrong size, and things didn’t turn out too well. After using the correct size drill bit, I’ve had much better luck with stud extractors
Maybe your eyes are better than mine, but I know I didn’t initially see the fine print
Yeah it said which bit to use on the label, although it did seem i could have gone larger, but I used what was printed on the package.
At this point i almost might as well rebuild the engine, but I need to get it running again to drive it to my father in laws where i have the room to really tear it apart
Is it a cast iron intake manifold?
I believe so yes
I hope you have help to left it off, if needed
Yep, this is where the car guy says “And to do this, I’ve asked my assistant Fred to give me a hand…”
Hah, we’ll see. Im hoping its liftable from the front of the car.
When I put the water pump on alone, that was awkward and heavy to line up and thread the bolts.
@Fender1325
Seriously, get help if needed
I personally know guys that have permanently hurt their back doing this kind of work, because they were too macho to ask a buddy for help
Worst possible angle for lifting something. Hello bad back!
Have you tried to set the punch near the edge of the stud, then tap it with a small hammer in the direction to remove the stud? Sometimes that works.
You could also try that on the broken stud remover but hitting it in the direction to tighten the stud so that you break the bite the broken section has. If you get it loose and out, then go to a hardware store or industrial supply house and get a straight flute stud remover. They cost quite a bit more but they work much better and i have never broken one. I have broken a lot of those low cost spiral fluted stud removers.
These studs are 1/4" or 5/16" in size. When they snap off flush with the surface there is not much to work with…Fender1325, If the hood is still on, now might be a good time to remove it…MUCH more room and light…
Good news. Progress today. I sprayed the heck out of the intake bolts with PB blaster and worked them out as easily as possible. Anytime I cracked the bolt I hit it with more PB and waited. So I’m happy to say the intake came out with no problems. It actually wasn’t terribly heavy either. Just had to work it out of the “nest” of metal vacuum lines and the carburetor linkage. Other then that no problem. Sending the fuel pump out to a guy in NY to rebuild it. By having mine rebuilt I can skip the core charge everybody charges. Also ordered a carb rebuild kit that I’ll do here with help from the father in law. Underneath the fuel tank looks to have no drainage bolt so I’ll have to drop it, which looks easy enough. Theres two straps and the filling line and vent line are both attached with a Rubber hose and hose clamps. The rubber is all hard and toasted so I’ll replace that with whatever I can find at autozone. The fuel line is steel the whole length of the car from the tank to the engine compartment so thats good. Rusty on the outside but looks to be surface rust. If I’m lucky this will make the car run happy and after I fix up the brakes maybe I can actually cruise around a little in it. Other then that I need to slow down before the Mrs. kicks me out!
I forgot to add, I’ll be dropping off the intake manifold at a local machine shop where theyll get the old studs out and put new ones in. I’m having all 4 done even though the rear 2 did not break. Just in case…
Pretty soon you’ll be giving us advice. ;-]
Too late now, but I’ve used a Dremel tool with a disk grinder to cut a slot in a butchered screw head, and used a screwdriver on it. Might be able to do the same with some snapped studs.
Yeah. Just got back from the machine shop. He said never use an easy out tool, best to take it to him and have him weld a nut on and back it out that way. Lessons lessons. He was kind of disappointed that I had basically a broken tip of that easy out tool in it AND a drill bit tip broken in it haha. But I told him it was up towards the top of the stud so he’s hoping it shouldnt be too much of a problem. But at 85 bucks an hour I’m hoping its not too much a problem myself too! I’ll be working out of town for a while so I wont be able to do too much for a couple weeks. I’m a painter and will be working at an old friends house redoing all of it. I’ll keep you guys posted.
Machine shop called today… He successfully was able to get all 4 studs out. Im out of town so I wont be able to get it until next week, but im excited to get that back and reassemble everything.
I bet you were ready for some good news for a change…
A little update…
Got the fuel pump rebuild back in the mail, looks like brand new. Got the carb rebuild kit and watched my father in law do it as it was totally alien to me. Got the intake manifold back. It was bead blasted and drilled out the old studs and
Helicoils added. Looks like new as well. Ive got gaskets coming. I took out the fuel tank, drained about 2 gallons of brown gas out which had about half a cup of brown sandy rust. Its going to need a good cleaning but the exterior looks good. Not too far from assembly but again I’ll be gone the next two weeks working. Thats all folks!